Rio Grande to Enseada Pinheira - Day 6

Our course rounded Ilha Coral then proceeded roughly NW to the entrance to Enseada Pinheira.

A fairly straightforward approach with some added complications. It was pitch black, no moon and continuous light rain with restricted visibility at times.

Beyond Ilha Coral there were no lights of navigation aids of any sort. There is a large rock at the surface near the middle of the entrance. I simply followed my GPS course in and in the event arrived safely.

We anchored off Pinheira village at 02:00 IN 4.4 metres of water. There was a low residual swell making it's way into the bay. Of to my bunk for a good sleep.

Rio Grande to Pinheira


Rio Grande to Enseada Pinheira - Day 5

At about 02:00 some 25 offshore with the coast converging it became apparent that we could no longer hold a safe course under sail and weather Cabo S. Marta Grande.

The wind had backed further to ENE-NE 14-18 knots and tacking would not do the job sending us off in the direction of South Africa. In the interests of maintaining good progress I had allowed a falling off from our course which nibbled away at our sea room cushion.

Now there was a penalty to paid. I decided to motor sail under main only. This put us back on a safe course and was later helped by the wind veering a tad.

At 12:00 Cabo S. Marta Grande was rounded.

Noon run 96.1 miles. 45 miles to go to Enseada Pinheira.

By now the wind had died away leaving us with slight seas and a long swell. At 15:00 a nice easterly breeze sprang up and we romped along under sail at 5 knots for two hours until the wind died again.

The weather on this trip has been curious and not quite as expected. Forecast SE to E became ESE to to ENE. The difference being pleasant sailing giving way to less pleasant conditions. Another reason to get well offshore on this coast.

We were not home yet. At 18:00 I heard, I thought, a strong wind warning of NE/SE F7-9 from Radio Laguna. The reception was poor and the broadcast in Portuguese but a little seeds of doubt were planted in my mind. We were where we were and there was no practical port of refuge.

During the day there had been one or two small rain squalls. Now in the early evening there was a slightly eerie oily swell and a long line of dark cloud on the SE horizon.

We pressed on doing about 4.2 knots under motor. At nightfall the cloud arrived with light misty rain and periods of much reduced visibility.

Progress was steady and even in a short moderate swell my new ST2000 tiller pilot steered a perfect course. It also got a good dousing as continuous light rain set in.

At midnight we were approaching Ilha Coral which was lit.

Rio Grande to Enseada Pinheira - Day 4

After midnight the wind backed further to ENE at 18 knots. We were now beating and having to work to maintain our course.

I couldn't bear away because of the need to maintain plenty of sea room on this coast. At this point we were 41 miles offshore.

At 04:00 we passed the latitude of Porto Alegre and are now the farthest north we have been since December 2008.

Around dawn the wind increased to 22 knots where it stayed all day.

Noon run 99 miles.

What a contrast to yesterday. Conditions have become unpleasant with a dark cloudy sky. Sailing conditions became uncomfortable. Bang bang bang hard on the wind all day.

Late in the evening the wind eased slightly to 18 knots as we proceeded in a moderate sea with long swell.

Rio Grande to Enseada Pinheira - Day 3

Around midnight the wind backed then died away to less than 5 knots. We spent the early hours ghosting along at around 1 knot.

Then at around 08:00 the wind resumed from the SE to 12-14 knots. A glorious morning's sailing and I sat in the cockpit thoroughly enjoying it. The sea was a deep blue under a celeste sky with scattered light fluffy clouds. The stuff armchair sailors dream of.

Noon run 72.1 miles. Not bad considering 8 hours of ghosting.

A little mistake on my Navionics electronic chart.
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Glorious sailing.
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Later in the afternoon and on into the evening the wind increased to around 17knots and backed ESE/E.

Car carrier "Shenandoah Highway" northbound to seaward.
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Later with the wind at 22 knots I put one reef in the main and took in 50% of the yankee.

Rio Grande to Enseada Pinheira - Day 2

Overnight the wind settled to around 22 knots SSE with a moderate sea and swell. I chose to sail a bit closer to the wind to get offshore as quickly as possible.

Some fishing and commercial traffic during the night but nothing too close.

By morning conditions eased with the wind variable but settling around 12kn SSE-SE.

Noon run 73 miles. Very good speed and if maintained will see us in Enseada Pinheira early monday afternoon. The set on shore appears much reduced and we are now 25 miles offshore on our charted course.


A relaxing afternoon at sea. Speed 4.2knots and the sounder just reading "Deep".
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Tanker "Gan Triumph" in ballast bound SE.
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Lovely red sunset with a container ship silhouetted on the Horizon?
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Later a Brazilian fishing vessel came quite close and dropped a buoy illuminated with a tiny strobe light. Very difficult to see at 2-300 metres.

No change during the evening. Lovely conditions. Good sailing.

Rio Grande to Enseada Pinheira - Day 1

There was a good chance of being able to leave today. Up early to walk into town to check the weather. It looked very good. A five day window of favourable winds.

Took a moto taxi to the Capitania for clearance and buy some charts for Ilha Santa Catarina. Brazilian charts cost R$45 each (about £16). I'm not sure they are corrected to date but they are what they are.

Back on board after topping up with vegetables and Kiriwina was ready to go. WE left the berth at 14:30. It was a bit of a slog downstream with headwinds reaching 25 knots in cloudy squalls.

Something was happening with the fish. There were small and medium size fishing boats charging about all over the channel. They would stop, fish and then move on. I saw one boat heading back loaded to the gunwhales with a good catch. Clearly there were fish to be had.

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About 8 larger inshore fishing boats were anchored inside the breakwater. I wondered if they knew something I didn't.
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Anyway, off we went and cleared the breakwater at 18:00 and shortly afterwards shut the motor down and proceeded under sail. Wind SSE 5.

At first we were doing 6.3kn over the ground with a noticeable shoreward set. Around 20:00 the wind quickly strengthened to 27 knots followed by some equally rapid reefing.

We made good progress and by midnight the wind had eased to 17knots.