Quito to Buenos Aires
07/09/11 21:36
Our flight was very early. 07:10 departure. Checkin was very quick and we left on time.
Soon to be closed, Quito airport.
About to take off.
Quito from the air.
Andean vista.
Approaching Lima, Peru where we changed planes.
Atacama desert. Northern Chile.
Again, good on time flights with TACA. Immigration and customs were super fast at BsAs but there was a bit of a wait for our baggage.
Soon to be closed, Quito airport.
About to take off.
Quito from the air.
Andean vista.
Approaching Lima, Peru where we changed planes.
Atacama desert. Northern Chile.
Again, good on time flights with TACA. Immigration and customs were super fast at BsAs but there was a bit of a wait for our baggage.
Last Day in Quito
06/09/11 13:35
This morning we spent several hours browsing in Mercado Artenesal. Lots of tempting goodies. I came away with a Panama hat, a chess set and a couple of tee shirts.
My Indigenous v Conquistadores chess set.
Later we got a taxi out to Cumbaya. He stopped to fill up on the way.
These prices are US$ per US Gallon. One US gallon = 3.785 litres. So Super is US$0.53 (£0.33) per litre.
Nancy with rapidly growing grandaughter later in the evening.
My Indigenous v Conquistadores chess set.
Later we got a taxi out to Cumbaya. He stopped to fill up on the way.
These prices are US$ per US Gallon. One US gallon = 3.785 litres. So Super is US$0.53 (£0.33) per litre.
Nancy with rapidly growing grandaughter later in the evening.
Puerto Lopez to Quito
04/09/11 23:19
We left Hosteria Alandaluz at around 11:30 bound for Quito. A good day for travelling. Slightly overcast and not too hot.
There being no obvious enforcement of traffic regulations some municipalities resort to budget speed bumps. A length of 3" mooring line across the road tied on either side.
Traffic mayhem continues at a nearby crossroads while these officers enjoy a sunday afternoon in the shade listening to music.
Hotel California in San Antonio. From here on we began the climb back to Quito.
The road up into the mountains begins as a single carriageway. The traffic is insane. Probably the most dangerous road I have ever been on. It is geographically challenging but the danger lies with the large number of very stupid drivers, commercial and private. Queue overtaking over double yellows on blind corners, excessive speed and driving without lights. Add fog/mist and dampish roads and the mix was really toxic. Much of the commercial traffic comprises large American 16 wheelers. Kenworth, Mack, International all driven by idiots.
I would have been surprised if we had made it back without seeing at least one incident. We didn't. Still on the single carriageway traffic slowed to a crawl. A large Kenworth rig (40+ tons) coming downhill in the dark had gone into a shallow corner way too fast, lost the plot, and tipped onto its side blocking the approaching lane, fortunately not taking any other vehicles with it.
After 9 hours and 55 minutes we were back in Quito. In one piece. Next time we will fly.
Coast road up to Manta where we picked up route 30 all the way to route 35 which took us back to Quito. We used google maps on the I-Phone. Not very accurate but the best we had. Road numbers did not match those on the few signs we saw.
There being no obvious enforcement of traffic regulations some municipalities resort to budget speed bumps. A length of 3" mooring line across the road tied on either side.
Traffic mayhem continues at a nearby crossroads while these officers enjoy a sunday afternoon in the shade listening to music.
Hotel California in San Antonio. From here on we began the climb back to Quito.
The road up into the mountains begins as a single carriageway. The traffic is insane. Probably the most dangerous road I have ever been on. It is geographically challenging but the danger lies with the large number of very stupid drivers, commercial and private. Queue overtaking over double yellows on blind corners, excessive speed and driving without lights. Add fog/mist and dampish roads and the mix was really toxic. Much of the commercial traffic comprises large American 16 wheelers. Kenworth, Mack, International all driven by idiots.
I would have been surprised if we had made it back without seeing at least one incident. We didn't. Still on the single carriageway traffic slowed to a crawl. A large Kenworth rig (40+ tons) coming downhill in the dark had gone into a shallow corner way too fast, lost the plot, and tipped onto its side blocking the approaching lane, fortunately not taking any other vehicles with it.
After 9 hours and 55 minutes we were back in Quito. In one piece. Next time we will fly.
Coast road up to Manta where we picked up route 30 all the way to route 35 which took us back to Quito. We used google maps on the I-Phone. Not very accurate but the best we had. Road numbers did not match those on the few signs we saw.
Whale watching off Puerto Lopez
03/09/11 00:28
Overcast again today but still quite warm. We went whale watching off Puerto Lopez.
Lots of hustlers selling tickets. They pounce as soon as one opens the car door. After some questioning we chose and paid US$15 per person.
As with other places on this coast the beach shelves very gently. It was nearing low tide when we departed around 13:00.
We walked long the beach to our embarcation point. No dock here.
Shallow draught tour boats back in as far as they can. The passengers wade out.
Prior to this shoes and flipflops are collected, thrown in a large bag and left ashore. Shorts need to be rolled up.
All aboard and the crew push us off.
Our boat was the "Humpback Whale". It is about 6.5m long and fitted with two 100hp+ Yamaha outboards.
We were given a safety briefing with particular emphasis on not all rushing to one side when the ooh/aah started. Lifejackets were provided and use was compulsory.
On the way out we checked in at the Navy/Coastguard office. A passenger list was taken.
Then we were off. Full throttle 200+ horsepower.
Twenty minutes later about 1-2 miles from land our first sighting.
The whales migrate north from Antarctica, arriving off Ecuador in June to breed.
A mother and calf wandering south.
These are big creatures. 16m long and weighing up to 40 tons. At sea in a yacht one does not want to get to close. I had seen them in the distance several times while on passage but never this close.
These photos in no way do justice to the spectacle. Basically one waits for an opportunity, clicks, and hopes for a good result.
This was my best shot.
Nancy caught this jump with her I-Pod.
The whales roll from side to side exposing their fins.
We really enjoyed the trip. Over an hour on site amongst the whales and a magnificent spectacle.
Deep sea tuna boat at anchor off Puerto Lopez.
We didn't checkin with the coastguard on the way back. I suppose had we not come back they would know who had drowned.
Once ashore shoes were collected and a small boy carrying a bottle of water offered to rinse the sand from our feet.
Home made anchor for inshore fishing.
Electrical installation including nav. lights.
Pelicans waiting for the fisherman to return.
View from our post trip cafe. A coastguard patrol vessel moored off the coastguard/navy floating office.
Where the whales were.
Lots of hustlers selling tickets. They pounce as soon as one opens the car door. After some questioning we chose and paid US$15 per person.
As with other places on this coast the beach shelves very gently. It was nearing low tide when we departed around 13:00.
We walked long the beach to our embarcation point. No dock here.
Shallow draught tour boats back in as far as they can. The passengers wade out.
Prior to this shoes and flipflops are collected, thrown in a large bag and left ashore. Shorts need to be rolled up.
All aboard and the crew push us off.
Our boat was the "Humpback Whale". It is about 6.5m long and fitted with two 100hp+ Yamaha outboards.
We were given a safety briefing with particular emphasis on not all rushing to one side when the ooh/aah started. Lifejackets were provided and use was compulsory.
On the way out we checked in at the Navy/Coastguard office. A passenger list was taken.
Then we were off. Full throttle 200+ horsepower.
Twenty minutes later about 1-2 miles from land our first sighting.
The whales migrate north from Antarctica, arriving off Ecuador in June to breed.
A mother and calf wandering south.
These are big creatures. 16m long and weighing up to 40 tons. At sea in a yacht one does not want to get to close. I had seen them in the distance several times while on passage but never this close.
These photos in no way do justice to the spectacle. Basically one waits for an opportunity, clicks, and hopes for a good result.
This was my best shot.
Nancy caught this jump with her I-Pod.
The whales roll from side to side exposing their fins.
We really enjoyed the trip. Over an hour on site amongst the whales and a magnificent spectacle.
Deep sea tuna boat at anchor off Puerto Lopez.
We didn't checkin with the coastguard on the way back. I suppose had we not come back they would know who had drowned.
Once ashore shoes were collected and a small boy carrying a bottle of water offered to rinse the sand from our feet.
Home made anchor for inshore fishing.
Electrical installation including nav. lights.
Pelicans waiting for the fisherman to return.
View from our post trip cafe. A coastguard patrol vessel moored off the coastguard/navy floating office.
Where the whales were.
AlAndaluz
02/09/11 22:33
Feeling a lot better this morning we risked breakfast. All well.
After our somewhat squalid stay in Canoas we decided to move down the coast to Puerto Lopez. We had read about AlAndaluz which looked like a much more amenable place to stay.
Cows crossing the road en route to Puerto Lopez.
Puerto Lopez, while better than Canoas, was still something of a dump. Fortunately AlAndaluz was a few kilometres further south, just outside Puerto Rico
AlAndaluz describes itself as an "Eco Resort". Quite what this means is unclear but we were in luck. It was a lovely spot. No air conditioning. The rooms were constructed of local materials, thatch, bamboo and stone with high ceilings and natural ventilation. Our room was immaculate, clean and very comfortable. At US$65 per night this was more than double what we paid in Canoas but with a tenfold improvement in quality we were happy.
Pool area with our room complex in the background.
Mature and well tended gardens featuring mainly native plants and trees.
A critter in the garden.
Surf beach just steps from our room.
It was cloudy but the water was warm. Here the skipper sliding back to sea just after being dumped in the surf. Minor gravel rash resulted.
Back in our room relaxing after a hot shower. Note the bamboo 4 poster with full mosquito net.
AlAndaluz has a large open plan bamboo restaurant featuring natural ventilation and a fireplace for chilly evenings. No need to leave the complex to eat.
After our somewhat squalid stay in Canoas we decided to move down the coast to Puerto Lopez. We had read about AlAndaluz which looked like a much more amenable place to stay.
Cows crossing the road en route to Puerto Lopez.
Puerto Lopez, while better than Canoas, was still something of a dump. Fortunately AlAndaluz was a few kilometres further south, just outside Puerto Rico
AlAndaluz describes itself as an "Eco Resort". Quite what this means is unclear but we were in luck. It was a lovely spot. No air conditioning. The rooms were constructed of local materials, thatch, bamboo and stone with high ceilings and natural ventilation. Our room was immaculate, clean and very comfortable. At US$65 per night this was more than double what we paid in Canoas but with a tenfold improvement in quality we were happy.
Pool area with our room complex in the background.
Mature and well tended gardens featuring mainly native plants and trees.
A critter in the garden.
Surf beach just steps from our room.
It was cloudy but the water was warm. Here the skipper sliding back to sea just after being dumped in the surf. Minor gravel rash resulted.
Back in our room relaxing after a hot shower. Note the bamboo 4 poster with full mosquito net.
AlAndaluz has a large open plan bamboo restaurant featuring natural ventilation and a fireplace for chilly evenings. No need to leave the complex to eat.
Canoas
01/09/11 22:39
Not a nice day. Sick as dogs from midnight onwards. The proprietors casually mentioned that there was "a bug" going round.
Managed a drink of water during the evening.
Managed a drink of water during the evening.
Mitad del Mundo
19/08/11 22:11
Another lovely sunny morning. My day started with a visit to Movistar. Due to a network software implementation problem my new phone would not work. Don't worry they said, it will be working in 4 hours.
We had lunch at the El Bosque centre overlooking Quito airport.
Afterwards we visited Mitad del Mundo just north of Quito. This monument was completed in 1982, and marks a point on the equator. The 4.5 metre sphere on top weighs 5 tons.
Smaller towers on each side of the monument give position and altitude.
Nancy straddling the equator. However, using WGS84 datum, she isn't. That datum places the equator 240m further north.
The yellow line was marked using a different datum in use in Ecuador in 1982.
Facing west. Don't try this at sea.
Further north and west the road drops down into temperate rainforest, often obscured by clouds.
Returning to Quito from the north with and afternoon thunderstorm looming.
Back in Quito it rained heavily at around 17:00. As usual.
We had lunch at the El Bosque centre overlooking Quito airport.
Afterwards we visited Mitad del Mundo just north of Quito. This monument was completed in 1982, and marks a point on the equator. The 4.5 metre sphere on top weighs 5 tons.
Smaller towers on each side of the monument give position and altitude.
Nancy straddling the equator. However, using WGS84 datum, she isn't. That datum places the equator 240m further north.
The yellow line was marked using a different datum in use in Ecuador in 1982.
Facing west. Don't try this at sea.
Further north and west the road drops down into temperate rainforest, often obscured by clouds.
Returning to Quito from the north with and afternoon thunderstorm looming.
Back in Quito it rained heavily at around 17:00. As usual.
