Rio Grande to Enseada Pinheira - Day 6
15/11/11 11:46 Filed in: Brazil | On Passage
Our course rounded Ilha Coral then proceeded roughly NW to the entrance to Enseada Pinheira.
A fairly straightforward approach with some added complications. It was pitch black, no moon and continuous light rain with restricted visibility at times.
Beyond Ilha Coral there were no lights of navigation aids of any sort. There is a large rock at the surface near the middle of the entrance. I simply followed my GPS course in and in the event arrived safely.
We anchored off Pinheira village at 02:00 IN 4.4 metres of water. There was a low residual swell making it's way into the bay. Of to my bunk for a good sleep.
A fairly straightforward approach with some added complications. It was pitch black, no moon and continuous light rain with restricted visibility at times.
Beyond Ilha Coral there were no lights of navigation aids of any sort. There is a large rock at the surface near the middle of the entrance. I simply followed my GPS course in and in the event arrived safely.
We anchored off Pinheira village at 02:00 IN 4.4 metres of water. There was a low residual swell making it's way into the bay. Of to my bunk for a good sleep.
Rio Grande to Enseada Pinheira - Day 5
14/11/11 22:21 Filed in: Brazil | On Passage
At about 02:00 some 25 offshore with the coast converging it became apparent that we could no longer hold a safe course under sail and weather Cabo S. Marta Grande.
The wind had backed further to ENE-NE 14-18 knots and tacking would not do the job sending us off in the direction of South Africa. In the interests of maintaining good progress I had allowed a falling off from our course which nibbled away at our sea room cushion.
Now there was a penalty to paid. I decided to motor sail under main only. This put us back on a safe course and was later helped by the wind veering a tad.
At 12:00 Cabo S. Marta Grande was rounded.
Noon run 96.1 miles. 45 miles to go to Enseada Pinheira.
By now the wind had died away leaving us with slight seas and a long swell. At 15:00 a nice easterly breeze sprang up and we romped along under sail at 5 knots for two hours until the wind died again.
The weather on this trip has been curious and not quite as expected. Forecast SE to E became ESE to to ENE. The difference being pleasant sailing giving way to less pleasant conditions. Another reason to get well offshore on this coast.
We were not home yet. At 18:00 I heard, I thought, a strong wind warning of NE/SE F7-9 from Radio Laguna. The reception was poor and the broadcast in Portuguese but a little seeds of doubt were planted in my mind. We were where we were and there was no practical port of refuge.
During the day there had been one or two small rain squalls. Now in the early evening there was a slightly eerie oily swell and a long line of dark cloud on the SE horizon.
We pressed on doing about 4.2 knots under motor. At nightfall the cloud arrived with light misty rain and periods of much reduced visibility.
Progress was steady and even in a short moderate swell my new ST2000 tiller pilot steered a perfect course. It also got a good dousing as continuous light rain set in.
At midnight we were approaching Ilha Coral which was lit.
The wind had backed further to ENE-NE 14-18 knots and tacking would not do the job sending us off in the direction of South Africa. In the interests of maintaining good progress I had allowed a falling off from our course which nibbled away at our sea room cushion.
Now there was a penalty to paid. I decided to motor sail under main only. This put us back on a safe course and was later helped by the wind veering a tad.
At 12:00 Cabo S. Marta Grande was rounded.
Noon run 96.1 miles. 45 miles to go to Enseada Pinheira.
By now the wind had died away leaving us with slight seas and a long swell. At 15:00 a nice easterly breeze sprang up and we romped along under sail at 5 knots for two hours until the wind died again.
The weather on this trip has been curious and not quite as expected. Forecast SE to E became ESE to to ENE. The difference being pleasant sailing giving way to less pleasant conditions. Another reason to get well offshore on this coast.
We were not home yet. At 18:00 I heard, I thought, a strong wind warning of NE/SE F7-9 from Radio Laguna. The reception was poor and the broadcast in Portuguese but a little seeds of doubt were planted in my mind. We were where we were and there was no practical port of refuge.
During the day there had been one or two small rain squalls. Now in the early evening there was a slightly eerie oily swell and a long line of dark cloud on the SE horizon.
We pressed on doing about 4.2 knots under motor. At nightfall the cloud arrived with light misty rain and periods of much reduced visibility.
Progress was steady and even in a short moderate swell my new ST2000 tiller pilot steered a perfect course. It also got a good dousing as continuous light rain set in.
At midnight we were approaching Ilha Coral which was lit.
Rio Grande to Enseada Pinheira - Day 4
13/11/11 22:09 Filed in: Brazil | On Passage
After midnight the wind backed further to ENE at 18 knots. We were now beating and having to work to maintain our course.
I couldn't bear away because of the need to maintain plenty of sea room on this coast. At this point we were 41 miles offshore.
At 04:00 we passed the latitude of Porto Alegre and are now the farthest north we have been since December 2008.
Around dawn the wind increased to 22 knots where it stayed all day.
Noon run 99 miles.
What a contrast to yesterday. Conditions have become unpleasant with a dark cloudy sky. Sailing conditions became uncomfortable. Bang bang bang hard on the wind all day.
Late in the evening the wind eased slightly to 18 knots as we proceeded in a moderate sea with long swell.
I couldn't bear away because of the need to maintain plenty of sea room on this coast. At this point we were 41 miles offshore.
At 04:00 we passed the latitude of Porto Alegre and are now the farthest north we have been since December 2008.
Around dawn the wind increased to 22 knots where it stayed all day.
Noon run 99 miles.
What a contrast to yesterday. Conditions have become unpleasant with a dark cloudy sky. Sailing conditions became uncomfortable. Bang bang bang hard on the wind all day.
Late in the evening the wind eased slightly to 18 knots as we proceeded in a moderate sea with long swell.
Rio Grande to Enseada Pinheira - Day 3
12/11/11 22:55 Filed in: Brazil | On Passage
Around midnight the wind backed then died away to less than 5 knots. We spent the early hours ghosting along at around 1 knot.
Then at around 08:00 the wind resumed from the SE to 12-14 knots. A glorious morning's sailing and I sat in the cockpit thoroughly enjoying it. The sea was a deep blue under a celeste sky with scattered light fluffy clouds. The stuff armchair sailors dream of.
Noon run 72.1 miles. Not bad considering 8 hours of ghosting.
A little mistake on my Navionics electronic chart.
Glorious sailing.
Later in the afternoon and on into the evening the wind increased to around 17knots and backed ESE/E.
Car carrier "Shenandoah Highway" northbound to seaward.
Later with the wind at 22 knots I put one reef in the main and took in 50% of the yankee.
Then at around 08:00 the wind resumed from the SE to 12-14 knots. A glorious morning's sailing and I sat in the cockpit thoroughly enjoying it. The sea was a deep blue under a celeste sky with scattered light fluffy clouds. The stuff armchair sailors dream of.
Noon run 72.1 miles. Not bad considering 8 hours of ghosting.
A little mistake on my Navionics electronic chart.
Glorious sailing.
Later in the afternoon and on into the evening the wind increased to around 17knots and backed ESE/E.
Car carrier "Shenandoah Highway" northbound to seaward.
Later with the wind at 22 knots I put one reef in the main and took in 50% of the yankee.
Rio Grande to Enseada Pinheira - Day 2
11/11/11 22:03 Filed in: Brazil | On Passage
Overnight the wind settled to around 22 knots SSE with a moderate sea and swell. I chose to sail a bit closer to the wind to get offshore as quickly as possible.
Some fishing and commercial traffic during the night but nothing too close.
By morning conditions eased with the wind variable but settling around 12kn SSE-SE.
Noon run 73 miles. Very good speed and if maintained will see us in Enseada Pinheira early monday afternoon. The set on shore appears much reduced and we are now 25 miles offshore on our charted course.
A relaxing afternoon at sea. Speed 4.2knots and the sounder just reading "Deep".
Tanker "Gan Triumph" in ballast bound SE.
Lovely red sunset with a container ship silhouetted on the Horizon?
Later a Brazilian fishing vessel came quite close and dropped a buoy illuminated with a tiny strobe light. Very difficult to see at 2-300 metres.
No change during the evening. Lovely conditions. Good sailing.
Some fishing and commercial traffic during the night but nothing too close.
By morning conditions eased with the wind variable but settling around 12kn SSE-SE.
Noon run 73 miles. Very good speed and if maintained will see us in Enseada Pinheira early monday afternoon. The set on shore appears much reduced and we are now 25 miles offshore on our charted course.
A relaxing afternoon at sea. Speed 4.2knots and the sounder just reading "Deep".
Tanker "Gan Triumph" in ballast bound SE.
Lovely red sunset with a container ship silhouetted on the Horizon?
Later a Brazilian fishing vessel came quite close and dropped a buoy illuminated with a tiny strobe light. Very difficult to see at 2-300 metres.
No change during the evening. Lovely conditions. Good sailing.
Rio Grande to Enseada Pinheira - Day 1
10/11/11 22:03 Filed in: Brazil | On Passage
There was a good chance of being able to leave today. Up early to walk into town to check the weather. It looked very good. A five day window of favourable winds.
Took a moto taxi to the Capitania for clearance and buy some charts for Ilha Santa Catarina. Brazilian charts cost R$45 each (about £16). I'm not sure they are corrected to date but they are what they are.
Back on board after topping up with vegetables and Kiriwina was ready to go. WE left the berth at 14:30. It was a bit of a slog downstream with headwinds reaching 25 knots in cloudy squalls.
Something was happening with the fish. There were small and medium size fishing boats charging about all over the channel. They would stop, fish and then move on. I saw one boat heading back loaded to the gunwhales with a good catch. Clearly there were fish to be had.
About 8 larger inshore fishing boats were anchored inside the breakwater. I wondered if they knew something I didn't.
Anyway, off we went and cleared the breakwater at 18:00 and shortly afterwards shut the motor down and proceeded under sail. Wind SSE 5.
At first we were doing 6.3kn over the ground with a noticeable shoreward set. Around 20:00 the wind quickly strengthened to 27 knots followed by some equally rapid reefing.
We made good progress and by midnight the wind had eased to 17knots.
Took a moto taxi to the Capitania for clearance and buy some charts for Ilha Santa Catarina. Brazilian charts cost R$45 each (about £16). I'm not sure they are corrected to date but they are what they are.
Back on board after topping up with vegetables and Kiriwina was ready to go. WE left the berth at 14:30. It was a bit of a slog downstream with headwinds reaching 25 knots in cloudy squalls.
Something was happening with the fish. There were small and medium size fishing boats charging about all over the channel. They would stop, fish and then move on. I saw one boat heading back loaded to the gunwhales with a good catch. Clearly there were fish to be had.
About 8 larger inshore fishing boats were anchored inside the breakwater. I wondered if they knew something I didn't.
Anyway, off we went and cleared the breakwater at 18:00 and shortly afterwards shut the motor down and proceeded under sail. Wind SSE 5.
At first we were doing 6.3kn over the ground with a noticeable shoreward set. Around 20:00 the wind quickly strengthened to 27 knots followed by some equally rapid reefing.
We made good progress and by midnight the wind had eased to 17knots.
Rio Grande
09/11/11 23:20 Filed in: Brazil
After a very good night's sleep I was up at 08:30. The wind was still strong but was dropping.
My fender rig from last night. One can never have too many fenders.
First job was to take care of formalities.
The Policia Federal are conveniently located en route to the town centre. It took about 15 minutes there to formally enter Brazil and have my passport stamped. Then I stopped by Cafe Plaza to check and send mail. Interesting that the Brazilian marine forecast yesterday was NE Force 6-7. Without motor sailing and getting in quickly we would have taken a spanking.
Next, a moto taxi (R$5) down to the Receita at dock gate 5.
This was my third visit there and I have come to enjoy my chats with Senhor Gremio who is a fount of information on just about anything. This time he enlightened my on contractual difficulties with World Cup stadia and the financial behemoth that is Petrobras. He also told me that the burnt out Turkish ship that was here last year has been towed to Singapore for scrap. Singapore?
There was a short delay while a newly installed network printer malfunctioned. Only one person knew how to use it. Then I was on my way up to the Capitania where I was told that the handling person was at lunch but no problem this officer would get me processed. All done in about 15 minutes. Great.
Back on the boat I was advised that the Receita had called and asked me to stay on board. There was a problem with my paperwork. Oh dear! When I was here earlier this year the Receita arrested another yacht.
Kiriwina on the Museo berth at Rio Grande
Later Senhor Bastos from the Receita came on board bringing corrected paperwork. There was a typo which limited my Kiriwina's stay in Brazil to two weeks instead of three months. I was über impressed. He came all the way to my boat. He could have just asked me to return. Thanks Senhor Bastos.
The weather is looking good for a departure tomorrow or Friday.
This evening the heavens opened with violent gusts and heavy rain. Won't have to rinse the salt off tomorrow.
My fender rig from last night. One can never have too many fenders.
First job was to take care of formalities.
The Policia Federal are conveniently located en route to the town centre. It took about 15 minutes there to formally enter Brazil and have my passport stamped. Then I stopped by Cafe Plaza to check and send mail. Interesting that the Brazilian marine forecast yesterday was NE Force 6-7. Without motor sailing and getting in quickly we would have taken a spanking.
Next, a moto taxi (R$5) down to the Receita at dock gate 5.
This was my third visit there and I have come to enjoy my chats with Senhor Gremio who is a fount of information on just about anything. This time he enlightened my on contractual difficulties with World Cup stadia and the financial behemoth that is Petrobras. He also told me that the burnt out Turkish ship that was here last year has been towed to Singapore for scrap. Singapore?
There was a short delay while a newly installed network printer malfunctioned. Only one person knew how to use it. Then I was on my way up to the Capitania where I was told that the handling person was at lunch but no problem this officer would get me processed. All done in about 15 minutes. Great.
Back on the boat I was advised that the Receita had called and asked me to stay on board. There was a problem with my paperwork. Oh dear! When I was here earlier this year the Receita arrested another yacht.
Kiriwina on the Museo berth at Rio Grande
Later Senhor Bastos from the Receita came on board bringing corrected paperwork. There was a typo which limited my Kiriwina's stay in Brazil to two weeks instead of three months. I was über impressed. He came all the way to my boat. He could have just asked me to return. Thanks Senhor Bastos.
The weather is looking good for a departure tomorrow or Friday.
This evening the heavens opened with violent gusts and heavy rain. Won't have to rinse the salt off tomorrow.
Passage to Rio Grande - Day 4
08/11/11 23:51 Filed in: Brazil
Early this morning the wind started to back. It had been forecast to back and increase to force 6-7 but not until tomorrow. I don't like motoring on passage but here I was faced with approaching strong head winds. By motor sailing I could maintain my course and with good speed reach harbour before the worst arrived.
The engine went on.
Motor sailing hard on the wind around 14:00, 2 hours south of Rio Grande. Getting rid of Piriapolis dust.
Approaching Rio Grande channel 40 minutes out. Car carrier "Canadian Highway" proceeding in.
Approaching the breakwaters about 20 minutes out.
Roly poly in the channel.
At this point the wind had eased to 18 knots from 25. We were running at about half revs with one reef in the main and half yankee. 6.6 knots on the meter, depth 16.3 metres.
Almost in. The sea has eased but the swell is still there.
Entering the breakwaters and a lovely calm.
Further in near the container berths I had the sails down but was going very slowly under motor. This was a very strong ebb. I hoisted about 2/3 yankee and gained a couple of knots.
By the time this swinging ship was passed the wind was around 25knots gusting higher.
Then it became a dour slog. The channel curved bringing us head to wind and on a strong ebb. Yuk. Speed dropped to less than one knot. No fun. I tried tacking back and forth across the channel but even with the motor running we trod water. Nothing for it but to take the one knot and edge up channel.
After about two hours we finally turned into the sheltered link channel. Speed picked up and I could prepare lines and fenders.
Last year there was a burnt out Turkish ship here. This one is the new "Petrobras 58" fitting out.
It was getting dark as we passed "Canadian Highway". A pretty ship she is not.
Out of the link channel we turned into the old harbour and rocketed along the channel with the wind, around 20 knots and increasing, astern.
Our previous berth at the Museo was vacant so I was able to point into the wind, ghost alongside and leap ashore with two lines. We were safely all fast at 20:45 but just in time as the wind reached 27 knots gusting higher a wee bit later. I had calculated 2 hours for the harbour passage. It took nearly 5.
With the wind from the NE the old fender pop-out problem I first saw in Holland back in 2006 was again an issue. A strong wind pushes the boat hard onto a berth. With sufficient fetch the water is disturbed causing the boat to move up and down in a short jerky motion. If one is not very careful with fender placement they will pop out leaving the hull to grind against the dock.
I collapsed into my bunk.
The engine went on.
Motor sailing hard on the wind around 14:00, 2 hours south of Rio Grande. Getting rid of Piriapolis dust.
Approaching Rio Grande channel 40 minutes out. Car carrier "Canadian Highway" proceeding in.
Approaching the breakwaters about 20 minutes out.
Roly poly in the channel.
At this point the wind had eased to 18 knots from 25. We were running at about half revs with one reef in the main and half yankee. 6.6 knots on the meter, depth 16.3 metres.
Almost in. The sea has eased but the swell is still there.
Entering the breakwaters and a lovely calm.
Further in near the container berths I had the sails down but was going very slowly under motor. This was a very strong ebb. I hoisted about 2/3 yankee and gained a couple of knots.
By the time this swinging ship was passed the wind was around 25knots gusting higher.
Then it became a dour slog. The channel curved bringing us head to wind and on a strong ebb. Yuk. Speed dropped to less than one knot. No fun. I tried tacking back and forth across the channel but even with the motor running we trod water. Nothing for it but to take the one knot and edge up channel.
After about two hours we finally turned into the sheltered link channel. Speed picked up and I could prepare lines and fenders.
Last year there was a burnt out Turkish ship here. This one is the new "Petrobras 58" fitting out.
It was getting dark as we passed "Canadian Highway". A pretty ship she is not.
Out of the link channel we turned into the old harbour and rocketed along the channel with the wind, around 20 knots and increasing, astern.
Our previous berth at the Museo was vacant so I was able to point into the wind, ghost alongside and leap ashore with two lines. We were safely all fast at 20:45 but just in time as the wind reached 27 knots gusting higher a wee bit later. I had calculated 2 hours for the harbour passage. It took nearly 5.
With the wind from the NE the old fender pop-out problem I first saw in Holland back in 2006 was again an issue. A strong wind pushes the boat hard onto a berth. With sufficient fetch the water is disturbed causing the boat to move up and down in a short jerky motion. If one is not very careful with fender placement they will pop out leaving the hull to grind against the dock.
I collapsed into my bunk.
Piriapolis - Deep Locker Seals 2
01/11/11 00:40 Filed in: Uruguay
As forecast, strongish (F5) NE winds continued today with the water level dropping slowly throughout the day.
With stronger thinners to dissolve residual glue I continued refurbishing both deep locker seals. Very fiddly and time consuming work but finally completed.
Port
Starboard
Also did some sewing repairs on the sprayhood. Should be good for another year.
Main seam.
Grab handle.
With stronger thinners to dissolve residual glue I continued refurbishing both deep locker seals. Very fiddly and time consuming work but finally completed.
Port
Starboard
Also did some sewing repairs on the sprayhood. Should be good for another year.
Main seam.
Grab handle.