Overland to Buenos aires
17/12/10 22:02
Our TTL coach for Montevideo was due to depart at 23:30 but we didn't board until 00:15.
Brazil and Uruguay have a very considerate approach to overnight travellers. One's passport is held by the coach conductor who takes care of all formalities. A declaration is completed at checkin so at borders crossings sleeping passengers are not disturbed.
TTL are not as luxurious as the premium Argentine coach services but their coach was comfortable and the staff very helpful and considerate.
It was an uneventful overnight trip. We passed smoothly through Brazilian and Uruguayan border posts either side of Chuy, stopped at Punta del Este and arrived in Montevideo (Tres Cruces) more or less on time .
I took a Collectivo down to Montevideo Harbour. It was very hot and Buquebus was a bit chaotic. The self serve checkins did not work and they were having repeated computer malfunctions at the checking desks.
Upstairs prior to boarding it was all a bit of a zoo. Eventually boarding started but large areas of the ferry were cordoned off with the result that there were not quite enough seats made available for all on board.
Uruguayan navy base in Montevideo.
Departure was around 13:00 and three hours later we arrived in a very hot Buenos Aires.
Brazil and Uruguay have a very considerate approach to overnight travellers. One's passport is held by the coach conductor who takes care of all formalities. A declaration is completed at checkin so at borders crossings sleeping passengers are not disturbed.
TTL are not as luxurious as the premium Argentine coach services but their coach was comfortable and the staff very helpful and considerate.
It was an uneventful overnight trip. We passed smoothly through Brazilian and Uruguayan border posts either side of Chuy, stopped at Punta del Este and arrived in Montevideo (Tres Cruces) more or less on time .
I took a Collectivo down to Montevideo Harbour. It was very hot and Buquebus was a bit chaotic. The self serve checkins did not work and they were having repeated computer malfunctions at the checking desks.
Upstairs prior to boarding it was all a bit of a zoo. Eventually boarding started but large areas of the ferry were cordoned off with the result that there were not quite enough seats made available for all on board.
Uruguayan navy base in Montevideo.
Departure was around 13:00 and three hours later we arrived in a very hot Buenos Aires.
Passage to Rio Grande
11/12/10 13:57
It looked as though today might be the day to leave. The Uruguayan forecast was as follows.
Boletín Meteorológico Marino de la hora 15:00 UTC del 11/12/2010
Período de validez: 24 hs.
1. Aviso de temporal: se formula por rachas de viento del SE y S hasta la fuerza 8 (34 - 40 nudos) para Mar Territorial Uruguayo, Río de la Plata y Río Grande del Sur. Validez: desde las 20 UTC hasta el final del período.
Situación sinóptica correspondiente a la carta de las 12:00 UTC y su evolución:
Frente cálido se ubica en 27oS 58oW, 29oS 53oW y 30oS 50oW. Frente frío se ubica en 40oS 52oW, 38oS 55oW y 35oS 60oW y se desplaza al NE. Sistema de alta presión se aproxima por el SW de Provincia de Buenos Aires.
• Mar Territorial Uruguayo
Vientos: N fuerza 5/3. Rotando al S y SE fuerza 5/7, rachas de fuerza 8. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: nuboso y cubierto, precipitaciones y tormentas aisladas. Visibilidad: buena a regular. Olas: 1.5 m. evolucionando a 3.5 m. Tendencia próximas 48 horas: vientos: SW y W fuerza 5/6, rachas de fuerza 7. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: nuboso, períodos de algo nuboso.
The question for me was whether I would get F5 or F7. In the end I decided to go reasoning that the weather was forecast to ease further north and we were going north.
Our stay of two weeks at La Paloma cost Urg$3208 (£103). Clearance out was slow and relaxed.
Back on board I singled up and in calm conditions eased off the berth at 17:00. The engine seemed to hesitate before giving full power after a screeching noise from below. At 17:15 we cleared the harbour and motor sailed east to clear the sandbanks lying north of La Paloma harbour.
At 18:50 we were well clear and continued under sail. A heavy rain squall passed over at 20:00 followed by SW winds F4-5. Later La Laloma radio called up enquiring as to our well being.
Towards midnight we were having a relaxed sail and the wind began to ease.
Boletín Meteorológico Marino de la hora 15:00 UTC del 11/12/2010
Período de validez: 24 hs.
1. Aviso de temporal: se formula por rachas de viento del SE y S hasta la fuerza 8 (34 - 40 nudos) para Mar Territorial Uruguayo, Río de la Plata y Río Grande del Sur. Validez: desde las 20 UTC hasta el final del período.
Situación sinóptica correspondiente a la carta de las 12:00 UTC y su evolución:
Frente cálido se ubica en 27oS 58oW, 29oS 53oW y 30oS 50oW. Frente frío se ubica en 40oS 52oW, 38oS 55oW y 35oS 60oW y se desplaza al NE. Sistema de alta presión se aproxima por el SW de Provincia de Buenos Aires.
• Mar Territorial Uruguayo
Vientos: N fuerza 5/3. Rotando al S y SE fuerza 5/7, rachas de fuerza 8. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: nuboso y cubierto, precipitaciones y tormentas aisladas. Visibilidad: buena a regular. Olas: 1.5 m. evolucionando a 3.5 m. Tendencia próximas 48 horas: vientos: SW y W fuerza 5/6, rachas de fuerza 7. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: nuboso, períodos de algo nuboso.
The question for me was whether I would get F5 or F7. In the end I decided to go reasoning that the weather was forecast to ease further north and we were going north.
Our stay of two weeks at La Paloma cost Urg$3208 (£103). Clearance out was slow and relaxed.
Back on board I singled up and in calm conditions eased off the berth at 17:00. The engine seemed to hesitate before giving full power after a screeching noise from below. At 17:15 we cleared the harbour and motor sailed east to clear the sandbanks lying north of La Paloma harbour.
At 18:50 we were well clear and continued under sail. A heavy rain squall passed over at 20:00 followed by SW winds F4-5. Later La Laloma radio called up enquiring as to our well being.
Towards midnight we were having a relaxed sail and the wind began to ease.
Chuy
10/12/10 22:57
No chance to leave today but there just might be a weather window tomorrow. Meantime I decided to take bus ride up to Chuy on the Brazilian border.
Our bus took route 16 up to Rocha where there was a 15 minute layover.
An attractive central square surrounded by shops and businesses.
An attractive theatre....
...alongside a somewhat neglected cinema.
From Rocha our route continued along route 9 past Laguna de Castillo.
We passed through Castillo continued along route 9 past Laguna Negra to Punta del Diablo which is accessed via a dirt road leading down to the coast from route 9.
Colourful holiday homes in Punta del Diablo.
Punta del Diablo and the Atlantic beyond.
From Punta del Diablo we rejoined route 9 and continued on to Chuy passing the Uruguayan border post just south of the town.
Chuy straddles the Brazil/Uruguay border. This is its claim to fame but in reality there is little here to detain the visitor. There are a lot of duty free shops on the Uruguayan side but I saw little of interest.
The Border is on Avenida Uruguay/Brasil. This is the Uruguayan side..
..and this is the Brazilian side.
I had a late lunch and caught the return coach.
Our bus took route 16 up to Rocha where there was a 15 minute layover.
An attractive central square surrounded by shops and businesses.
An attractive theatre....
...alongside a somewhat neglected cinema.
From Rocha our route continued along route 9 past Laguna de Castillo.
We passed through Castillo continued along route 9 past Laguna Negra to Punta del Diablo which is accessed via a dirt road leading down to the coast from route 9.
Colourful holiday homes in Punta del Diablo.
Punta del Diablo and the Atlantic beyond.
From Punta del Diablo we rejoined route 9 and continued on to Chuy passing the Uruguayan border post just south of the town.
Chuy straddles the Brazil/Uruguay border. This is its claim to fame but in reality there is little here to detain the visitor. There are a lot of duty free shops on the Uruguayan side but I saw little of interest.
The Border is on Avenida Uruguay/Brasil. This is the Uruguayan side..
..and this is the Brazilian side.
I had a late lunch and caught the return coach.
La Paloma
07/12/10 21:40
Still no sign of a weather window. Northerly and north easterly winds 15-20 knots continued for most of today.
These are forecast to moderate before giving way to southerly winds tomorrow. Sadly the window looks too narrow as strong northerlys are forecast for Rio Grande on friday.
Nancy ran out of time and returned to Buenos Aires today.
These are forecast to moderate before giving way to southerly winds tomorrow. Sadly the window looks too narrow as strong northerlys are forecast for Rio Grande on friday.
Nancy ran out of time and returned to Buenos Aires today.
La Paloma
05/12/10 21:17
This weather really is a bit peculiar. We are pretty much getting alternating days of southerly and northerly winds.
This is unhelpful as we need 2-2.5 days to reach Rio Grande.
The forecast this evening was no better.
Boletín Meteorológico Marino de la hora 15:00 UTC del 05/12/2010
Período de validez: 24 hs. 1. Aviso de temporal: se prevén vientos equivalentes a la fuerza 8 de la escala Beaufort (34 - 40 kt) del NW para
la Provincia de Buenos Aires. Validez: desde las 03 UTC de mañana. 2. Aviso de visibilidad restringida: no se formula.
Situación sinóptica correspondiente a la carta de las 12:00 UTC y su evolución:
Sistema de alta presión con centro de valores superiores a 1018 hPa se ubica en 38oS 58oW se desplaza al NE. Frente frío se ubica en 35oS 50oW, 37oS 43oW, 40oS 35oW y se desplaza al ENE.
• Mar Territorial Uruguayo
Vientos: sector S fuerza 6/4, amainando a variables fuerza 2/3. Afirmándose mañana del sector N fuerza 4/6. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: algo nuboso y claro, períodos de nuboso mañana. Visibilidad: buena. Olas: 1.5 m evolucionando hasta 3.5 m.
Tendencia próximas 48 horas: vientos: sector N fuerza 4/6, ocasionales rachas de fuerza 7. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: algo nuboso y claro evolucionando a nuboso.
• Río Grande del Sur
Vientos: sector S fuerza 6/4 rotando al NE fuerza 2/3. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: algo nuboso, períodos de nuboso. Visibilidad: buena. Olas: 1.5 evolucionando hasta 4.0 m.
It was a lovely sunny day here. Not to hot and perfect for a walk along the beach.
This is unhelpful as we need 2-2.5 days to reach Rio Grande.
The forecast this evening was no better.
Boletín Meteorológico Marino de la hora 15:00 UTC del 05/12/2010
Período de validez: 24 hs. 1. Aviso de temporal: se prevén vientos equivalentes a la fuerza 8 de la escala Beaufort (34 - 40 kt) del NW para
la Provincia de Buenos Aires. Validez: desde las 03 UTC de mañana. 2. Aviso de visibilidad restringida: no se formula.
Situación sinóptica correspondiente a la carta de las 12:00 UTC y su evolución:
Sistema de alta presión con centro de valores superiores a 1018 hPa se ubica en 38oS 58oW se desplaza al NE. Frente frío se ubica en 35oS 50oW, 37oS 43oW, 40oS 35oW y se desplaza al ENE.
• Mar Territorial Uruguayo
Vientos: sector S fuerza 6/4, amainando a variables fuerza 2/3. Afirmándose mañana del sector N fuerza 4/6. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: algo nuboso y claro, períodos de nuboso mañana. Visibilidad: buena. Olas: 1.5 m evolucionando hasta 3.5 m.
Tendencia próximas 48 horas: vientos: sector N fuerza 4/6, ocasionales rachas de fuerza 7. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: algo nuboso y claro evolucionando a nuboso.
• Río Grande del Sur
Vientos: sector S fuerza 6/4 rotando al NE fuerza 2/3. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: algo nuboso, períodos de nuboso. Visibilidad: buena. Olas: 1.5 evolucionando hasta 4.0 m.
It was a lovely sunny day here. Not to hot and perfect for a walk along the beach.
Cabo Polonia
04/12/10 12:56
A brisk northerly this morning meant we would not be sailing today. We decided to visit Cabo Polonia some 50km up the coast.
There is a regular bus service from the coach station in La Paloma.
The bus stop for Cabo Polonia is actually some 7km from the cape. On has the choice of taking a very old 4wd shuttle (Urg$150 return) or walking. We chose to walk.
Goats on route.
Most or the route is over grassy dunes. The 4wd's make a bit of a mess of the terrain. Visitors and or residents are allowed access using their own 4wd's. Cabo Polonia is in the distance.
Dunes extending to the south.
Beach shack two km from the cape.
Sheltered beach on the leeward side of Cabo Polonia. The more expensive and better kept houses are on this side.
The beach gives way to rocks.
First attempt at an I-Phone panorama.
The northern side is much more heavily built with hostels, posadas shops, a shuttle station and a wide variety of private accommodation split between holiday homes and alternative lifestyle permanents. There is no mains electricity but I saw only a few wind generators and one solar heater.
There is a small fishing fleet. Boats are pulled clear of high water on skids.
Northern more exposed beach.
North facing houses on the shore battling erosion.
Most dwellings are small.
Fresh water is drawn from wells.
Many of the houses are home builds.
This was one of the smallest.
The lighthouse...
...with vicious shoals beyond.
A smarter house overlooking the leeward beach.
We caught a 4wd shuttle back. They are mostly heavily converted army surplus that have seen better days. On our trip the suspension bottomed regularly during a very bouncy ride. I preferred walking.
Back in La Paloma the latest forecast indicated a change to southerly winds for 24 hours then back to northerlys. No point in sailing with a south wind only to run into an F6 northerly 24 hours later.
There is a regular bus service from the coach station in La Paloma.
The bus stop for Cabo Polonia is actually some 7km from the cape. On has the choice of taking a very old 4wd shuttle (Urg$150 return) or walking. We chose to walk.
Goats on route.
Most or the route is over grassy dunes. The 4wd's make a bit of a mess of the terrain. Visitors and or residents are allowed access using their own 4wd's. Cabo Polonia is in the distance.
Dunes extending to the south.
Beach shack two km from the cape.
Sheltered beach on the leeward side of Cabo Polonia. The more expensive and better kept houses are on this side.
The beach gives way to rocks.
First attempt at an I-Phone panorama.
The northern side is much more heavily built with hostels, posadas shops, a shuttle station and a wide variety of private accommodation split between holiday homes and alternative lifestyle permanents. There is no mains electricity but I saw only a few wind generators and one solar heater.
There is a small fishing fleet. Boats are pulled clear of high water on skids.
Northern more exposed beach.
North facing houses on the shore battling erosion.
Most dwellings are small.
Fresh water is drawn from wells.
Many of the houses are home builds.
This was one of the smallest.
The lighthouse...
...with vicious shoals beyond.
A smarter house overlooking the leeward beach.
We caught a 4wd shuttle back. They are mostly heavily converted army surplus that have seen better days. On our trip the suspension bottomed regularly during a very bouncy ride. I preferred walking.
Back in La Paloma the latest forecast indicated a change to southerly winds for 24 hours then back to northerlys. No point in sailing with a south wind only to run into an F6 northerly 24 hours later.
La Pedrera
03/12/10 21:11
It was a marginal call this morning. This was the forecast.
Mar Territorial Uruguayo
Vientos: sector S fuerza 3/5, Ocasionalmente 6 amainando. Luego al SE y E fuerza 3/4. Luego al N fuerza 4/5. Asociadas a tormentas probables rachas de fuerza 7/8. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: nuboso y algo nuboso. Visibilidad: buena. Olas: 2.5 – 1.5 m.
Tendencia próximas 48 horas: vientos: NW fuerza 3/2, periodos de variables y de calma afirmandose. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: algo nuboso y claro, nuboso al final de periodo.
Río Grande del Sur
Vientos: N fuerza 5/3. rotando al S y SE fuerza 4/6. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: nuboso con algos precipitaciones. Probable tormentas al sur del área. Visibilidad: buena. Olas: 3.0 – 1.5 m.
Rio Grande is 210 miles away. Just over two days for Kiriwina at 4 knots. According to satellite pictures the storms were away in the south.
At 09:00 it looked to be blowing F6 outside the harbour. The weather changes rapidly here and I felt the window of opportunity was a bit narrow. We stayed.
Instead we walked 8.5 kilometers barefoot along the beach to nearby La Pedrera. Nice beach and a discreet little resort at La Pedrera.
Remains of the chinese ship "Cathay" wrecked here in 1977.
Nancy and the beach with La Paloma in the distance.
Mar Territorial Uruguayo
Vientos: sector S fuerza 3/5, Ocasionalmente 6 amainando. Luego al SE y E fuerza 3/4. Luego al N fuerza 4/5. Asociadas a tormentas probables rachas de fuerza 7/8. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: nuboso y algo nuboso. Visibilidad: buena. Olas: 2.5 – 1.5 m.
Tendencia próximas 48 horas: vientos: NW fuerza 3/2, periodos de variables y de calma afirmandose. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: algo nuboso y claro, nuboso al final de periodo.
Río Grande del Sur
Vientos: N fuerza 5/3. rotando al S y SE fuerza 4/6. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: nuboso con algos precipitaciones. Probable tormentas al sur del área. Visibilidad: buena. Olas: 3.0 – 1.5 m.
Rio Grande is 210 miles away. Just over two days for Kiriwina at 4 knots. According to satellite pictures the storms were away in the south.
At 09:00 it looked to be blowing F6 outside the harbour. The weather changes rapidly here and I felt the window of opportunity was a bit narrow. We stayed.
Instead we walked 8.5 kilometers barefoot along the beach to nearby La Pedrera. Nice beach and a discreet little resort at La Pedrera.
Remains of the chinese ship "Cathay" wrecked here in 1977.
Nancy and the beach with La Paloma in the distance.
La Paloma
02/12/10 21:17
Overnight the forecast northerly of around 25 knots arrived. It made for a slightly more bumpy evening on our mooring.
A calm spell around mid morning gave way to a strong north westerly of 25-30 knots. We are completely sheltered from this wind.
A french single hander arrived this afternoon. With 20 knots plus blowing across the mooring it was difficult to berth. There were five Uruguayan officials standing around but none attempted to help. Another french skipper tried to help by rowing out a buoy line. He was stopped by a very officious and unhelpful Prefectura noncom who threw a hissy fit on the grounds that a lifejacket was not being worn. After bout of chaos a lifejacket was produced and the lines were run out. No thanks to the Hidrografia, Prefectura or Aduana.
I've never seen this type of official down here before. His conduct contrasts with the remarks by President Mujica yesterday about the need for training and investment in developing tourism.
Later we walked the outer breakwater. This seal was taking a nap.
A dangerous rocky shoal extends some way out to sea on the southern harbour approach.
The forecast for tomorrow and beyond. North, back to south. Not helpful. We will be here for a few days yet.
Mar Territorial Uruguayo
Vientos: N fuerza 4/5, períodos de variables fuerza 2. Rotando al S fuerza 5/6. Ocasionales rachas fuerza 8 asociadas a tormentas. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: nuboso, períodos de cubierto con precipitaciones y tormentas. Mejorando mañana.
Visibilidad: buena, períodos de regular. Olas: 1.5 - 2.5 m. Tendencia próximas 48 horas: vientos: S fuerza 5/6 al sector N fuerza 3/4. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: algo nuboso y claro.
A calm spell around mid morning gave way to a strong north westerly of 25-30 knots. We are completely sheltered from this wind.
A french single hander arrived this afternoon. With 20 knots plus blowing across the mooring it was difficult to berth. There were five Uruguayan officials standing around but none attempted to help. Another french skipper tried to help by rowing out a buoy line. He was stopped by a very officious and unhelpful Prefectura noncom who threw a hissy fit on the grounds that a lifejacket was not being worn. After bout of chaos a lifejacket was produced and the lines were run out. No thanks to the Hidrografia, Prefectura or Aduana.
I've never seen this type of official down here before. His conduct contrasts with the remarks by President Mujica yesterday about the need for training and investment in developing tourism.
Later we walked the outer breakwater. This seal was taking a nap.
A dangerous rocky shoal extends some way out to sea on the southern harbour approach.
The forecast for tomorrow and beyond. North, back to south. Not helpful. We will be here for a few days yet.
Mar Territorial Uruguayo
Vientos: N fuerza 4/5, períodos de variables fuerza 2. Rotando al S fuerza 5/6. Ocasionales rachas fuerza 8 asociadas a tormentas. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: nuboso, períodos de cubierto con precipitaciones y tormentas. Mejorando mañana.
Visibilidad: buena, períodos de regular. Olas: 1.5 - 2.5 m. Tendencia próximas 48 horas: vientos: S fuerza 5/6 al sector N fuerza 3/4. Nubosidad y fenómenos asociados: algo nuboso y claro.
A Presidential Visit
01/12/10 21:57
A northerly force 7 is forecast within the next 18 hours so we won't be leaving today.
On the way into town we noticed a guard of honour at the naval helicopter station adjacent to the harbour.
A naval helicopter swooped in and landed and we assumed it was merely a high ranking officer paying a visit. Not so. Senor José Mujica, Presidente de la República Oriental del Uruguay was coming to visit.
We thought we would tag along and see what was happening. A new breakwater to the west of the harbour had just been completed at a cost of US$6.4 million. The first stage in a plan to redevelop the harbour and infrastructure.
This chap who, I assume, is the presidential chief of staff was giving an introductory speech. We were waved in by naval police and were front row centre to view proceedings.
Next up the Intendente (Mayor) de Rocha praising the project and welcoming visiting dignitaries.
President Mujica waiting his turn on stage. He is the stocky grey haired chap in sunglasses just left of centre. He looks like a cuddly grandad and seems very approachable.
A fishing boat entering La Paloma harbour as the speeches continue.
Next up Alejandro Ruibal. Operations director of construction company Saceem who built the breakwater.
Then we heard from the Minister of Works, Enrique Pintado.
Meantime some muscle and two ribbon girls waited in the wings.
Now it was time to introduce Senor Presidente.....
The cameras clicked and whirred as he moved forward.
Not wanting to stand and deliver he took the microphone, sat down on the edge of the stage, and talked about continuity of infrastructure projects and the work they bring to communities across Uruguay.
Lots of media in attendance. TV, radio and press.
The chief of staff looked pleased with proceedings.
The new breakwater being officially opened today.
The ribbon cutting ceremony with pieces being distributed to the dignitaries present.
Time for a photo op as a beaming ribbon girl holds her tray and scissors.
El Presidente takes a walk on the breakwater.
The president receiving an explanation of the project. He has now donned a New York baseball cap.
The chap in the foreground had a wire coming out of his left ear and rarely moved more than a metre away from the President. He also discreetly squeezed out of the way anybody impeding presidential progress.
This is the problem the breakwater is meant to solve. Massive silting over many years has left this dock dry and unusable.
As explanations continue a Prefectura rib patrols in the background.
Nancy got to extend saludos to the President and shake his hand. Sadly, due to a photographer malfunction only her shoulder appears in the photo.
More admirers take the opportunity for a photo op.
The show is pretty much over and visitors start to leave. The muscle keep a close eye on the President.
This is not a pretentious presidency. The presidential Mitsubishi Lancer awaits.
President Mujica jumps into the front seat with the driver and off they go.
Some local fireman also attended.
And there he goes. The presidential helicopter heading south west to Montevideo.
It was very hot. We went to the beach.
Back at the harbour a view of the silting from the other side.
On the way into town we noticed a guard of honour at the naval helicopter station adjacent to the harbour.
A naval helicopter swooped in and landed and we assumed it was merely a high ranking officer paying a visit. Not so. Senor José Mujica, Presidente de la República Oriental del Uruguay was coming to visit.
We thought we would tag along and see what was happening. A new breakwater to the west of the harbour had just been completed at a cost of US$6.4 million. The first stage in a plan to redevelop the harbour and infrastructure.
This chap who, I assume, is the presidential chief of staff was giving an introductory speech. We were waved in by naval police and were front row centre to view proceedings.
Next up the Intendente (Mayor) de Rocha praising the project and welcoming visiting dignitaries.
President Mujica waiting his turn on stage. He is the stocky grey haired chap in sunglasses just left of centre. He looks like a cuddly grandad and seems very approachable.
A fishing boat entering La Paloma harbour as the speeches continue.
Next up Alejandro Ruibal. Operations director of construction company Saceem who built the breakwater.
Then we heard from the Minister of Works, Enrique Pintado.
Meantime some muscle and two ribbon girls waited in the wings.
Now it was time to introduce Senor Presidente.....
The cameras clicked and whirred as he moved forward.
Not wanting to stand and deliver he took the microphone, sat down on the edge of the stage, and talked about continuity of infrastructure projects and the work they bring to communities across Uruguay.
Lots of media in attendance. TV, radio and press.
The chief of staff looked pleased with proceedings.
The new breakwater being officially opened today.
The ribbon cutting ceremony with pieces being distributed to the dignitaries present.
Time for a photo op as a beaming ribbon girl holds her tray and scissors.
El Presidente takes a walk on the breakwater.
The president receiving an explanation of the project. He has now donned a New York baseball cap.
The chap in the foreground had a wire coming out of his left ear and rarely moved more than a metre away from the President. He also discreetly squeezed out of the way anybody impeding presidential progress.
This is the problem the breakwater is meant to solve. Massive silting over many years has left this dock dry and unusable.
As explanations continue a Prefectura rib patrols in the background.
Nancy got to extend saludos to the President and shake his hand. Sadly, due to a photographer malfunction only her shoulder appears in the photo.
More admirers take the opportunity for a photo op.
The show is pretty much over and visitors start to leave. The muscle keep a close eye on the President.
This is not a pretentious presidency. The presidential Mitsubishi Lancer awaits.
President Mujica jumps into the front seat with the driver and off they go.
Some local fireman also attended.
And there he goes. The presidential helicopter heading south west to Montevideo.
It was very hot. We went to the beach.
Back at the harbour a view of the silting from the other side.
Boat Maintenance - La Paloma
30/11/10 20:12
Calm and cool this morning but a strong northerly is due soon.
First job was to tackle the Jabsco toilet pump and see if my theoretical modifications will work.
Sadly these pumps, excellent functionally, are probably not strong enough for live aboard use. This is the third failure I have had to deal with on this 12 year old pump. Firstly in 2008 a cracked water inlet manifold was sealed and built up with epoxy. Then the same repair was needed in August 2010 with the water outlet manifold. So far so good.
This repair was a bit more complex. The top pump housing is attached to the base with 6 self tapping screws. These screw into six studs which are placed under stress with screw removal and tightening and general flexing of the pump when in use.
The joint had started leaking when in use indicating a bad seal. Assuming some gentle screw tightening would solve matters I felt something give. A stud had sheared and close inspection revealed two others with large cracks around the base.
What to do. I might be able to get a new pump in Montevideo but Buenos Aires is the more likely source.
I decided to try a modification. IMHO self tapping screws are evil things and their frequent use on fittings where maintenance requires removal is, IMHO, not helpful. I decided to drill the stud holes out to a diameter slightly larger than the stock screws which would be replaced by nuts and bolts. The studs would then serve a positioning function with the load being borne by the two pump housings.
A walk up to the local ferreteria produced galvanised bolts of the right size. I can source stainless ones later.
All went well and the joint seemed watertight. On reassembly the pump worked perfectly with just a trickle seeping past the seal. A bit of gentle tightening produced a water tight pump. Fingers crossed.
At Punta del Este my hitherto trusty Autohelm tiller pilot ceased functioning. The cause was traced to some corrosion on the connector pins.
After a putting some hours on the engine after replacing the stern gland seal some tightening of the gland was needed to stem a fast drip into the bilge.
Seen on a roundabout on the back way into town.
A nice calm sea now. No sign yet of the northerly wind.
La Paloma lighthouse.
First job was to tackle the Jabsco toilet pump and see if my theoretical modifications will work.
Sadly these pumps, excellent functionally, are probably not strong enough for live aboard use. This is the third failure I have had to deal with on this 12 year old pump. Firstly in 2008 a cracked water inlet manifold was sealed and built up with epoxy. Then the same repair was needed in August 2010 with the water outlet manifold. So far so good.
This repair was a bit more complex. The top pump housing is attached to the base with 6 self tapping screws. These screw into six studs which are placed under stress with screw removal and tightening and general flexing of the pump when in use.
The joint had started leaking when in use indicating a bad seal. Assuming some gentle screw tightening would solve matters I felt something give. A stud had sheared and close inspection revealed two others with large cracks around the base.
What to do. I might be able to get a new pump in Montevideo but Buenos Aires is the more likely source.
I decided to try a modification. IMHO self tapping screws are evil things and their frequent use on fittings where maintenance requires removal is, IMHO, not helpful. I decided to drill the stud holes out to a diameter slightly larger than the stock screws which would be replaced by nuts and bolts. The studs would then serve a positioning function with the load being borne by the two pump housings.
A walk up to the local ferreteria produced galvanised bolts of the right size. I can source stainless ones later.
All went well and the joint seemed watertight. On reassembly the pump worked perfectly with just a trickle seeping past the seal. A bit of gentle tightening produced a water tight pump. Fingers crossed.
At Punta del Este my hitherto trusty Autohelm tiller pilot ceased functioning. The cause was traced to some corrosion on the connector pins.
After a putting some hours on the engine after replacing the stern gland seal some tightening of the gland was needed to stem a fast drip into the bilge.
Seen on a roundabout on the back way into town.
A nice calm sea now. No sign yet of the northerly wind.
La Paloma lighthouse.
La Paloma
29/11/10 21:12
This morning a problem developed with our toilet pump. Too much water was leaking from the top housing. Normally, tightening the screws a tad solves this problem. This time I felt something give.
A mounting stud had sheared off. Oh dear. No spare pump and without a pump we have no toilet. Hmmm. Nearest replacement? Probably Buneos Aires.
We walked into town past the old La Paloma station sadly disused but with the tracks and platform still more or less intact.
Looks like the weather will be unhelpful for a few days so we checked bus timetables in case it was necessary to source a new pump in BsAs.
We found out today that a yacht was wrecked on sunday night in Punta del Este, the same night we were having a robust ride up the Uruguayan coast.
A mounting stud had sheared off. Oh dear. No spare pump and without a pump we have no toilet. Hmmm. Nearest replacement? Probably Buneos Aires.
We walked into town past the old La Paloma station sadly disused but with the tracks and platform still more or less intact.
Looks like the weather will be unhelpful for a few days so we checked bus timetables in case it was necessary to source a new pump in BsAs.
We found out today that a yacht was wrecked on sunday night in Punta del Este, the same night we were having a robust ride up the Uruguayan coast.
Punta del Este to La Paloma
28/11/10 22:00
At one stage the wind dropped down to 11 knots and I considered carrying on. At daylight it was back up to 20 knots.
At 06:20 we steered for La Paloma. It was an uneventful straightforward approach but mooring was a bit pragmatic. Hidrografia staff stood on the dock waving about but with 20 knots blowing across the dock it was extremely difficult to get a line on a mooring buoy and nudge in to get bow lines ashore. At some ports Hidrografia staff assist but not here. Fortunately a french skipper jumped in a dinghy and ran our line to the buoy.
The buoys here are steel, low down with no fendering at all. Not at all friendly to GRP boats. At check in I was reprimanded by the Prefectura for not calling in before entering the harbour. These radio encounters involve lengthy questioning at a time when one is concentrating on navigating the boat into harbour and I mentioned this to the Prefectura. Nothing further was said.
Passage time 21hrs 20 min. Distance 58.21 miles.
At 06:20 we steered for La Paloma. It was an uneventful straightforward approach but mooring was a bit pragmatic. Hidrografia staff stood on the dock waving about but with 20 knots blowing across the dock it was extremely difficult to get a line on a mooring buoy and nudge in to get bow lines ashore. At some ports Hidrografia staff assist but not here. Fortunately a french skipper jumped in a dinghy and ran our line to the buoy.
The buoys here are steel, low down with no fendering at all. Not at all friendly to GRP boats. At check in I was reprimanded by the Prefectura for not calling in before entering the harbour. These radio encounters involve lengthy questioning at a time when one is concentrating on navigating the boat into harbour and I mentioned this to the Prefectura. Nothing further was said.
Passage time 21hrs 20 min. Distance 58.21 miles.
Punta del Este to La Paloma
27/11/10 17:01
The forecast today was for the calm weather to give way to SE F4-6. I decided to take advantage and go.
First we had to check out. At 10:15 I was in the Hidrografia office ready to pay. They informed me that check out after 10:00 meant paying another day. There was no notice of this on the web site, rate sheet or in the office. Nor were we told about it beforehand. I was not happy and after a brief chat they relented provided we left quickly. Silly really as no other Hidrografia port I have visited tries this and the port was pretty empty in any case.
It was still calm as we rounded Punta del Este and steered NE up the coast.
About 16:00 it began to blow. 10, 15, 20 up to 28 knots. We were fly along having steadily reduced sail to the staysail and 3 reefs in the main.
It was an angry disturbed sea and much more uncomfortable than expected with quite violent boat motion.
It looks better downwind.
The forecast indicated moderating conditions over night. The wind dropped at times but was mostly above 20 knots. with the outlook uncertain I decided to divert in and wait for conditions to improve. At around 21:00 we hove to to wait for daylight. It was a very uncomfortable night bouncing about off La Paloma.
First we had to check out. At 10:15 I was in the Hidrografia office ready to pay. They informed me that check out after 10:00 meant paying another day. There was no notice of this on the web site, rate sheet or in the office. Nor were we told about it beforehand. I was not happy and after a brief chat they relented provided we left quickly. Silly really as no other Hidrografia port I have visited tries this and the port was pretty empty in any case.
It was still calm as we rounded Punta del Este and steered NE up the coast.
About 16:00 it began to blow. 10, 15, 20 up to 28 knots. We were fly along having steadily reduced sail to the staysail and 3 reefs in the main.
It was an angry disturbed sea and much more uncomfortable than expected with quite violent boat motion.
It looks better downwind.
The forecast indicated moderating conditions over night. The wind dropped at times but was mostly above 20 knots. with the outlook uncertain I decided to divert in and wait for conditions to improve. At around 21:00 we hove to to wait for daylight. It was a very uncomfortable night bouncing about off La Paloma.
Punta Ballena
26/11/10 21:09
This morning we moved on to a dock mooring. The difference here between mooring on a buoy (Urg$292) and on the dock (Urg$372) is about 30%. In some other Hidrografia ports it is 100%.
They got a bit snippy with us saying that the berth we had chosen was reserved and we would have to move. It turned out that the Hidrografia use USA Channel 20 whereas our Channel 20 is European. They heard us call but we could not hear them.
It turned out that the berth was vacant after all and we stayed.
No wind today so we rented a scooter and drove 20km out to Punta Ballena.
Nancy at Punta Ballena with Punta del Este in the background.
It is a lovely spot and we had a spectacular day to visit.
An old fishermans cottage tucked in among the rocks.
Punta Ballena is home to CasaPueblo. The museum/workshop of the Uruguayan artist Carlos Páez Vilaró.
A gorgeous location and a beautifully eccentric building constructed over many years.
The building is an expression of his never ending conflict with the tyranny of the straight line.
Some of his paintings are on display.
A micro cinema screens an introductory video.
There is a hotel included in the site...
...complete with gardens and a pool.
Late afternoon terrace view west towards Piriapolis.
This makes the fifth none linear artist/architect I have come across. The others being Gaudi in Barcelona, Hundertwasser in Vienna, César Manrique on Lanzarote and Antonio Padron also on Lanzarote.
Back in Punta del Este we had a red sunset over the marina.
They got a bit snippy with us saying that the berth we had chosen was reserved and we would have to move. It turned out that the Hidrografia use USA Channel 20 whereas our Channel 20 is European. They heard us call but we could not hear them.
It turned out that the berth was vacant after all and we stayed.
No wind today so we rented a scooter and drove 20km out to Punta Ballena.
Nancy at Punta Ballena with Punta del Este in the background.
It is a lovely spot and we had a spectacular day to visit.
An old fishermans cottage tucked in among the rocks.
Punta Ballena is home to CasaPueblo. The museum/workshop of the Uruguayan artist Carlos Páez Vilaró.
A gorgeous location and a beautifully eccentric building constructed over many years.
The building is an expression of his never ending conflict with the tyranny of the straight line.
Some of his paintings are on display.
A micro cinema screens an introductory video.
There is a hotel included in the site...
...complete with gardens and a pool.
Late afternoon terrace view west towards Piriapolis.
This makes the fifth none linear artist/architect I have come across. The others being Gaudi in Barcelona, Hundertwasser in Vienna, César Manrique on Lanzarote and Antonio Padron also on Lanzarote.
Back in Punta del Este we had a red sunset over the marina.
Montevideo to Punta del Este
25/11/10 22:07
Throughout the early hours we made good progress but at daybreak the wind began to die away. At 08:00 we were ghosting along under light airs and by 09:30 we were becalmed.
We decided to motor for a while but after three hours with no sign of wind we diverted to Punta del Este at 13:00.
Skyline Punta del Este.
Isla Gorriti off Punta del Este.
Punta Del Este moorings.
Looking for a buoy.
We got no reponse to our VHF calls to the Hidrografia and port control so we just picked up a vacant buoy at 15:20.
Fisherman sell their freshly cleaned catch on the marina quay. Seals come alongside and sometimes jump on the quay for some easy food.
Feeding time for seagulls as well.
Atlantic shoreline at Punta de Este.
Total distance: 75.6 miles. Passage time: 28 hours 20 minutes.
We decided to motor for a while but after three hours with no sign of wind we diverted to Punta del Este at 13:00.
Skyline Punta del Este.
Isla Gorriti off Punta del Este.
Punta Del Este moorings.
Looking for a buoy.
We got no reponse to our VHF calls to the Hidrografia and port control so we just picked up a vacant buoy at 15:20.
Fisherman sell their freshly cleaned catch on the marina quay. Seals come alongside and sometimes jump on the quay for some easy food.
Feeding time for seagulls as well.
Atlantic shoreline at Punta de Este.
Total distance: 75.6 miles. Passage time: 28 hours 20 minutes.
Montevideo to Punta del Este
24/11/10 17:06
We left YC Uruguayo at 11:00 under a light ESE breeze and began slowly tacking to the east. Northerlys were forecast.
Smart residential area to the east of Buceo.
Progress was very very slow until the wind backed and increased to N4 around midnight.
Smart residential area to the east of Buceo.
Progress was very very slow until the wind backed and increased to N4 around midnight.
Montevideo
23/11/10 21:08
A tourism day today.
We took the bus into Montevideo and down to the old port area where we had lunch in the market.
Reminders of the Graf Spee are not infrequent in Montevideo.
One of many fine buildings scattered around Montevideo.
We took the bus into Montevideo and down to the old port area where we had lunch in the market.
Reminders of the Graf Spee are not infrequent in Montevideo.
One of many fine buildings scattered around Montevideo.
Montevideo
22/11/10 22:08
We took a chance on the wind this afternoon and ventured out into a gentle south easterly . The forecast westerly change did not transpire and the south easterly increased to over 20 knots whipping up short steep seas giving a very uncomfortable ride.
There being no hurry we returned to Buceo.
There being no hurry we returned to Buceo.
Montevideo
21/11/10 17:06
A lovely sunny day in Montevideo today.
Exhibit of vintage Peugeot cars at shopping Montevideo.
Looking eastward over Buceo harbour.
Late this afternoon I took the bus up to Tres Cruces coach station where Nancy was due to arrive from Buenos Aires.
Exhibit of vintage Peugeot cars at shopping Montevideo.
Looking eastward over Buceo harbour.
Late this afternoon I took the bus up to Tres Cruces coach station where Nancy was due to arrive from Buenos Aires.
Montevideo
19/11/10 17:04
Midnight saw us approaching Montevideo and at 00:25 the Graf Spee wreck buoy was close abeam to starboard.
We crossed Montevideo ship channel at 01:30 and at 03:40 anchored in 3 metres off Playa Pocitos, Buceo, Montevideo.
Moon setting over Montevideo.
Playa Pocitos anchorage.
There was no particular hurry and I slept late. At 10:30 we weighed anchor and proceeded towards Buceo harbour and Yacht Club Uruguayo.
Looking back through the entrance to Buceo harbour.
Yacht Club Uruguayo building and moorings.
A welcoming marinero assisted with picking up a visitor buoy and at 11:00 we were all fast at Yacht Club Uruguayo.
Total Distance 120.37 miles. Passage time to anchorage 37hrs 40min.
We crossed Montevideo ship channel at 01:30 and at 03:40 anchored in 3 metres off Playa Pocitos, Buceo, Montevideo.
Moon setting over Montevideo.
Playa Pocitos anchorage.
There was no particular hurry and I slept late. At 10:30 we weighed anchor and proceeded towards Buceo harbour and Yacht Club Uruguayo.
Looking back through the entrance to Buceo harbour.
Yacht Club Uruguayo building and moorings.
A welcoming marinero assisted with picking up a visitor buoy and at 11:00 we were all fast at Yacht Club Uruguayo.
Total Distance 120.37 miles. Passage time to anchorage 37hrs 40min.
Buenos Aires to Montevideo
18/11/10 17:04
Early on the wind veered SW and we made steady progress but as the day wore on we slowed to a point of ghosting along
Large amounts of airborne spider web like material began to collect in the rigging.
A very slight sea, 5.2 knots of wind, depth 6m and speed 1.7 knots.
By 20:00 the lights of Montevideo were visible on the horizon and we made good progress under a northerly F3.
Large amounts of airborne spider web like material began to collect in the rigging.
A very slight sea, 5.2 knots of wind, depth 6m and speed 1.7 knots.
By 20:00 the lights of Montevideo were visible on the horizon and we made good progress under a northerly F3.
Buenos Aires to Montevideo
17/11/10 22:03
I took the excellent Sturla river launch from Tigre to Puerto Madero arriving at just after 09:00.
With my customs clearance completed yesterday it only remained to check out with Immigration and Prefectura. Unusually immigration took almost an hour with queueing and problems with a new computer system.
At the Prefectura a new formality had been introduced. Under decree 256/2010 the master of any vessel leaving an Argentine port is required to sign an affadavit to the effect that the vessel will not call at a number of British south atlantic territories without first obtaining permission from the Argentine authorities.
I'm not sure how well this plays under international law but presumably if one does not sign it one will not be granted clearance.
In any case I was cleared out but not in time to catch the 12:00 bridge opening. At 14:00 we left Puerto Madero and cleared the harbour at 14:30
The wind was all over the place. Initially it was good sailing but later the wind veered to the east and around 19:00 we began a series of long tacks.
A RoRo bound for Puerto Sauce passed to the north.
Later a nice red sunset gave way to a full moon.
Ships passing in the night. One day I will learn how to take night photos on a boat at sea.
In these conditions sailng in the River Plate is a relaxed affair. One is well clear of shipping channels and there is very little recreational traffic. We made slow progress through the night with SE winds F3-4.
With my customs clearance completed yesterday it only remained to check out with Immigration and Prefectura. Unusually immigration took almost an hour with queueing and problems with a new computer system.
At the Prefectura a new formality had been introduced. Under decree 256/2010 the master of any vessel leaving an Argentine port is required to sign an affadavit to the effect that the vessel will not call at a number of British south atlantic territories without first obtaining permission from the Argentine authorities.
I'm not sure how well this plays under international law but presumably if one does not sign it one will not be granted clearance.
In any case I was cleared out but not in time to catch the 12:00 bridge opening. At 14:00 we left Puerto Madero and cleared the harbour at 14:30
The wind was all over the place. Initially it was good sailing but later the wind veered to the east and around 19:00 we began a series of long tacks.
A RoRo bound for Puerto Sauce passed to the north.
Later a nice red sunset gave way to a full moon.
Ships passing in the night. One day I will learn how to take night photos on a boat at sea.
In these conditions sailng in the River Plate is a relaxed affair. One is well clear of shipping channels and there is very little recreational traffic. We made slow progress through the night with SE winds F3-4.
Colonia to Buenos Aires
14/10/10 21:25
First job this morning was to obtain an exit stamp from Immigration. After a shower I paid the Hidrografia for one night on a buoy. This time it cost Urg$190, a 19% increase from Urg$160 in January. Last year the amenities block was refurbished. Less than a year later some areas were looking distinctly second hand with render peeling away from the ceiling and woodwork deteriorating.
Lastly I cleared out with the Prefectura and 12:00 we were ready to go.
There was virtually no wind as the buoy was dropped and we cleared Colonia harbour.
As this fast Buquebus ferry passed about a mile outside the harbour a light southerly breeze appeared and we motor sailed with full main and yankee.
An isolated danger buoy at the western approaches to Colonia.
There followed an uneventful sail/motor sail across to Buenos Aires. The wind, mostly from the south, veered a tad to the west but it was possible to sail most of the way.
Approaching Buenos Aires.
The inner basin of Darsena Norte and Yacht Club Argentino.
Access to Puerto Madero used to be via an opening bridge. The old british swing bridge had been demolished and there was now only a pedestrian footbtidge. Arriving at 17:40 we had to wait for the 18:00 opening. Meantime a slow BuqueBus ferry came in to berth.
As usual, a rib from Yacht Club Puerto Madero came out to escort us in and by 19:15 Kiriwina was all fast on her berth.
Lastly I cleared out with the Prefectura and 12:00 we were ready to go.
There was virtually no wind as the buoy was dropped and we cleared Colonia harbour.
As this fast Buquebus ferry passed about a mile outside the harbour a light southerly breeze appeared and we motor sailed with full main and yankee.
An isolated danger buoy at the western approaches to Colonia.
There followed an uneventful sail/motor sail across to Buenos Aires. The wind, mostly from the south, veered a tad to the west but it was possible to sail most of the way.
Approaching Buenos Aires.
The inner basin of Darsena Norte and Yacht Club Argentino.
Access to Puerto Madero used to be via an opening bridge. The old british swing bridge had been demolished and there was now only a pedestrian footbtidge. Arriving at 17:40 we had to wait for the 18:00 opening. Meantime a slow BuqueBus ferry came in to berth.
As usual, a rib from Yacht Club Puerto Madero came out to escort us in and by 19:15 Kiriwina was all fast on her berth.
Puerto Sauce to Colonia
13/10/10 22:16
Weather conditions looked pretty benign so I decided to go round to Colonia today. I cleared out with the Prefectura and said adios to the very helpful staff at the Hidrografia.
Kiriwina has been at Puerto Sauce since February and I reckon it is the safest port I have seen in Uruguay. By safe I mean being able to leave the boat unattended for long periods of time.
I am not a big fan of the Uruguayan mooring system of lines to steel buoys astern and bow lines ashore. With up to 3m variation in water levels this system needs constant attention. On the buoys, however, a yacht is quite safe. Puerto Sauce is well sheltered and the staff keep a good eye on moored yachts.
The one downside at Puerto Sauce is the adjacent paper mill. With the wind in the wrong direction there is an unpleasant smell and the topsides get quite dirty. I spent a couple of hours giving Kiriwina a good wash down and rigging the foresails.
By mid afternoon all was ready and at 14:00 we left Puerto Sauce.
Initially there was some wind but it gradually died as we motor sailed then motored to Colonia.
ROU buoy off Punta Sande.
We arrived at Colonia around 20:45 and picked up a visitor buoy. The port was pretty empty with a couple of Argentine yachts on the breakwater and a few on the buoys.
Kiriwina has been at Puerto Sauce since February and I reckon it is the safest port I have seen in Uruguay. By safe I mean being able to leave the boat unattended for long periods of time.
I am not a big fan of the Uruguayan mooring system of lines to steel buoys astern and bow lines ashore. With up to 3m variation in water levels this system needs constant attention. On the buoys, however, a yacht is quite safe. Puerto Sauce is well sheltered and the staff keep a good eye on moored yachts.
The one downside at Puerto Sauce is the adjacent paper mill. With the wind in the wrong direction there is an unpleasant smell and the topsides get quite dirty. I spent a couple of hours giving Kiriwina a good wash down and rigging the foresails.
By mid afternoon all was ready and at 14:00 we left Puerto Sauce.
Initially there was some wind but it gradually died as we motor sailed then motored to Colonia.
ROU buoy off Punta Sande.
We arrived at Colonia around 20:45 and picked up a visitor buoy. The port was pretty empty with a couple of Argentine yachts on the breakwater and a few on the buoys.
Montevideo to Puerto Sauce.
12/10/10 16:45
I slept for most of the overnight flight from Miami.
Passing over Montevideo on our approach to Carracas airport.
Almost down.
An Iberia Airbus landing at the same time as us and the new Carracas terminal.
Our AA Boeing on the gate.
Carracas is not a large airport and with two big jets landing the volume of passengers overwhelmed them. Arrivals are fed down an escalator into the immigration hall which quickly filled but the escalator kept feeding in more passengers and things started to look dodgy until someone stopped the escalator.
After a longish wait at immigration I was cleared through and caught a city bus to Tres Cruces coach station where, after a couple of hours I caught my coach to Puerto Sauce.
Back on board all was well and I got on with preparing for departure.
Passing over Montevideo on our approach to Carracas airport.
Almost down.
An Iberia Airbus landing at the same time as us and the new Carracas terminal.
Our AA Boeing on the gate.
Carracas is not a large airport and with two big jets landing the volume of passengers overwhelmed them. Arrivals are fed down an escalator into the immigration hall which quickly filled but the escalator kept feeding in more passengers and things started to look dodgy until someone stopped the escalator.
After a longish wait at immigration I was cleared through and caught a city bus to Tres Cruces coach station where, after a couple of hours I caught my coach to Puerto Sauce.
Back on board all was well and I got on with preparing for departure.
Puerto Sauce
26/08/10 22:38
Calm and cold last night with heavy fog this morning.
Back to Buenos Aires in the afternoon with a long shopping list for our visit to the U.S.
Back to Buenos Aires in the afternoon with a long shopping list for our visit to the U.S.
Winter Maintenance
25/08/10 22:13
Water was again leaking from the Jabsco heads pump. Not a lot but enough to corrode the galvanised jubilee clips.
I decided to do an overhaul on the pump as well as fixing the crack.
This time the crack was on the inlet pipe. I think the problem here is that the hose connections are just not thick enough to withstand repeated flexing as the pump is used. Last time it was the outlet connection.
The exoxy repair from last time is still holding do I did the same repair on the inlet as well as fitting new washers and other bits from the Jabsco spares kit.
It all went back together and now functions perfectly without leaks.
I decided to do an overhaul on the pump as well as fixing the crack.
This time the crack was on the inlet pipe. I think the problem here is that the hose connections are just not thick enough to withstand repeated flexing as the pump is used. Last time it was the outlet connection.
The exoxy repair from last time is still holding do I did the same repair on the inlet as well as fitting new washers and other bits from the Jabsco spares kit.
It all went back together and now functions perfectly without leaks.
Puerto Sauce
24/08/10 21:13
First job this morning was to top up with fresh water. There has been a lot of new piping installed recently an the water was not too clean.
This from one 20L can.
Lovely sunset this evening.
This from one 20L can.
Lovely sunset this evening.
Ferry to Puerto Suce
23/08/10 21:39
Nice trip as usual on Colonia Express.
I finally got an answer on availability of the advertised ticket prices. There are 5 seats available at the lowest price and 5 at the next level on each sailing. These are rarely available.
All fine on Kiriwina. Batteries were well charged and the bilge was dry.
I finally got an answer on availability of the advertised ticket prices. There are 5 seats available at the lowest price and 5 at the next level on each sailing. These are rarely available.
All fine on Kiriwina. Batteries were well charged and the bilge was dry.
Mercedes to Tigre
19/04/10 12:05
Up at a reasonable hour to catch a 10:30 coach to Nueva Palmira.
A virtualy empty marina at Nueva Palmira. Only a few local boats and no visiting boats at all.
Much lower water levels today and lots of ocean bulkers at anchor waiting to load grain.
The bridge on our Delta Argentino launch, Don Humberto.
Autumn in the Tigre delta.
Back at Tigre on time at 18:00.
A virtualy empty marina at Nueva Palmira. Only a few local boats and no visiting boats at all.
Much lower water levels today and lots of ocean bulkers at anchor waiting to load grain.
The bridge on our Delta Argentino launch, Don Humberto.
Autumn in the Tigre delta.
Back at Tigre on time at 18:00.
Rio Negro Day Two
18/04/10 21:09
Back aboard Menkar for another day on the Rio Negro.
Nancy and Dominique at lunch en route.
Gilles the skipper.
Approaching a secluded anchorage some 2 hours down river from Mercedes.
Lovely beach. The water here is comparatively clear when compared with the Rio Uruguay. We anchored in about 3 metres.
Time for a quick swim.
Relatively deep water close inshore with about 1 knot of current. Fish territory.
I caught a fish! Not a bad one at that. It weighed about 3kg.
My fish. Salminus Brasiliensis, common name Dorado. A fresh water carnivore, it is found in northern Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay and southern Brazil. It can grow to 1.2 metres (30kg) and is very aggressive. Those teeth can cause serious damage to the fingers of a careless angler.
I caught this one using a lure without bait and it took about 8 minutes to get it into the dinghy.
The fact that I caught it owes everything to Gilles skill in selecting our fishing spot and the fact that almost every time a lure was cast it was struck almost immediately. If a fish was lost another was on the line within minutes. All I had to do was land it.
Fresh out of the water at 18:00.
Cleaned and ready for the oven 18:48. My fish had two quite large partly digested fish in it's stomach.
Ready to eat 20:05. More than enough for four.
All done 20:40.
After eating we had an uneventful trip back to Mercedes in virtually total darkness and arrived just after midnight.
Our route today.
Nancy and Dominique at lunch en route.
Gilles the skipper.
Approaching a secluded anchorage some 2 hours down river from Mercedes.
Lovely beach. The water here is comparatively clear when compared with the Rio Uruguay. We anchored in about 3 metres.
Time for a quick swim.
Relatively deep water close inshore with about 1 knot of current. Fish territory.
I caught a fish! Not a bad one at that. It weighed about 3kg.
My fish. Salminus Brasiliensis, common name Dorado. A fresh water carnivore, it is found in northern Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay and southern Brazil. It can grow to 1.2 metres (30kg) and is very aggressive. Those teeth can cause serious damage to the fingers of a careless angler.
I caught this one using a lure without bait and it took about 8 minutes to get it into the dinghy.
The fact that I caught it owes everything to Gilles skill in selecting our fishing spot and the fact that almost every time a lure was cast it was struck almost immediately. If a fish was lost another was on the line within minutes. All I had to do was land it.
Fresh out of the water at 18:00.
Cleaned and ready for the oven 18:48. My fish had two quite large partly digested fish in it's stomach.
Ready to eat 20:05. More than enough for four.
All done 20:40.
After eating we had an uneventful trip back to Mercedes in virtually total darkness and arrived just after midnight.
Our route today.
Rio Negro Day One
17/04/10 23:12
The port of Mercedes is 60km upstream from Rio Uruguay.
Gilles and Dominique on Menkar returned late last night. We joined them this morning for a trip on the Rio Negro.
Menkar on a buoy between Isla del Puerto and the quay at Mercedes.
Looking upstream at Mercedes towards the pasarella. Lots of floating debris was trapped in the bridge superstructure.
The main quay at Mercedes.
The whole dock area has been restored. Mooring for yachts, alongside or on a buoy is free! This includes water and electricity. Although the entire area is open to the public there is 24/7 security and I saw nothing to indicate any problems.
Is there a catch to all this? Possibly.
This photo was taken back in february when we passed through Mercedes. This catamaran is lying more or less in the same spot as Menkar in the photo above. Flooding raised the Rio Negro to a depth of 8.8 metres at Mercedes. Sufficient to immerse the red building up to it's roof and flood buildings a block and a half into the town. They have 14m of chain on the mooring buoys!
Our plan was to motor gently upstream and do some fishing.
Mercedes rowing club.
We needed to pass under this bridge. Absent detailed information we needed to get up close and see if we could pass.
It looks pretty high. We should get through.
Hmm, difficult to tell.
Getting very close. Having second thoughts.
No indications as to depth or air draught.
Just port and starboard markings.
Will we make it? The people on the bridge can't see underneath. From our deck it's very difficult to tell. Gilles edged up close into the current.
Too close to call. Gilles drops back and returns down river to fish elsewhere.
A lovely day on the river. Little wind and 1-2 knots of current.
Autumnal colours, calm and virtually deserted.
Numerous beaches with fine white sand.
Gilles anchored about an hour downstream behind an island. Out came the rods.
Lot's of fish in the river. The bait (tiny fish) was attacked almost immediately. Something on the line here.
A small catfish with very big spikes.
Self with a yellow fish of about 1kg.
After a few hours fishing we made a night passage back to Mercedes. The Rio Negro is buoyed but not lit and with little habitation and no moon it was a dark night. Gilles has a very sophisticated computerised navigation system. He can overlay GPS data onto most maps, photographs or charts and even onto google earth which we were using tonight.
No problems apart from a small exchange of paint with one of the buoys.
Gilles and Dominique on Menkar returned late last night. We joined them this morning for a trip on the Rio Negro.
Menkar on a buoy between Isla del Puerto and the quay at Mercedes.
Looking upstream at Mercedes towards the pasarella. Lots of floating debris was trapped in the bridge superstructure.
The main quay at Mercedes.
The whole dock area has been restored. Mooring for yachts, alongside or on a buoy is free! This includes water and electricity. Although the entire area is open to the public there is 24/7 security and I saw nothing to indicate any problems.
Is there a catch to all this? Possibly.
This photo was taken back in february when we passed through Mercedes. This catamaran is lying more or less in the same spot as Menkar in the photo above. Flooding raised the Rio Negro to a depth of 8.8 metres at Mercedes. Sufficient to immerse the red building up to it's roof and flood buildings a block and a half into the town. They have 14m of chain on the mooring buoys!
Our plan was to motor gently upstream and do some fishing.
Mercedes rowing club.
We needed to pass under this bridge. Absent detailed information we needed to get up close and see if we could pass.
It looks pretty high. We should get through.
Hmm, difficult to tell.
Getting very close. Having second thoughts.
No indications as to depth or air draught.
Just port and starboard markings.
Will we make it? The people on the bridge can't see underneath. From our deck it's very difficult to tell. Gilles edged up close into the current.
Too close to call. Gilles drops back and returns down river to fish elsewhere.
A lovely day on the river. Little wind and 1-2 knots of current.
Autumnal colours, calm and virtually deserted.
Numerous beaches with fine white sand.
Gilles anchored about an hour downstream behind an island. Out came the rods.
Lot's of fish in the river. The bait (tiny fish) was attacked almost immediately. Something on the line here.
A small catfish with very big spikes.
Self with a yellow fish of about 1kg.
After a few hours fishing we made a night passage back to Mercedes. The Rio Negro is buoyed but not lit and with little habitation and no moon it was a dark night. Gilles has a very sophisticated computerised navigation system. He can overlay GPS data onto most maps, photographs or charts and even onto google earth which we were using tonight.
No problems apart from a small exchange of paint with one of the buoys.
Puerto Sauce to Mercedes
16/04/10 22:10
Felt a lot better this morning and got up early to do some more winterising. Swapped all halyards with dummy lines. The halyards will still need washing.
Due to a check the bus times malfunction I missed the bus into Colonia. If I caught the next bus I would have missed my onward connection to Mercedes. A punishing Ur$750 (£25) taxi ride into Colonia was the solution.
Our bus route to Mercedes took us through Carmelo, Nueva Palmira and then inland to Mercedes. The service is not an express. It stops at major towns and villages and most other places on request. This more than doubled the trip time to Nueva Palmira where Nancy joined me.
We got into Mercedes at around 15:00 and checked into the Gran Hotel Brisas Del Hum on Plaza Independencia. Not the cheapest at US$75 but it was relatively new and very comfortable.
View Mercedes in a larger map
Due to a check the bus times malfunction I missed the bus into Colonia. If I caught the next bus I would have missed my onward connection to Mercedes. A punishing Ur$750 (£25) taxi ride into Colonia was the solution.
Our bus route to Mercedes took us through Carmelo, Nueva Palmira and then inland to Mercedes. The service is not an express. It stops at major towns and villages and most other places on request. This more than doubled the trip time to Nueva Palmira where Nancy joined me.
We got into Mercedes at around 15:00 and checked into the Gran Hotel Brisas Del Hum on Plaza Independencia. Not the cheapest at US$75 but it was relatively new and very comfortable.
View Mercedes in a larger map
At Puerto Sauce
15/04/10 21:11
13 April 2010
Took the ferry from Tigre to Nueva Palmira and onto Colonia and Puerto Sauce by bus. The sailing season here is pretty much over so I decided to store the sails and running rigging below.
The weather forecast was not good. I did not get to Puerto Sauce until mid afternoon by which time a storm threatened. I was able to get the foresails stowed before a heavy rainstorm hit but with oilskins on I could use the rain to give the topsides a good wash.
My replacing of the shaft seal padding had worked well. The bilge was dry.
14 April 2010
Very heavy rain all day with increasing SW winds. There was only slight movement in the port and with the Superwind keeping the batteries charged the Eberspacher fired up without problem and kept me warm and cosy. This was fortunate as I developed a stinking cold.
15 April 2010
Not a good day. Very strong SW winds gusting to 35 knots and frequent rain squalls. The boat rode comfortably.
Interesting to observe a large Argentine motor cruiser arrive and find it impossible to pick up a mooring. In the end a Belgian skipper dinghied over to assist.
Took the ferry from Tigre to Nueva Palmira and onto Colonia and Puerto Sauce by bus. The sailing season here is pretty much over so I decided to store the sails and running rigging below.
The weather forecast was not good. I did not get to Puerto Sauce until mid afternoon by which time a storm threatened. I was able to get the foresails stowed before a heavy rainstorm hit but with oilskins on I could use the rain to give the topsides a good wash.
My replacing of the shaft seal padding had worked well. The bilge was dry.
14 April 2010
Very heavy rain all day with increasing SW winds. There was only slight movement in the port and with the Superwind keeping the batteries charged the Eberspacher fired up without problem and kept me warm and cosy. This was fortunate as I developed a stinking cold.
15 April 2010
Not a good day. Very strong SW winds gusting to 35 knots and frequent rain squalls. The boat rode comfortably.
Interesting to observe a large Argentine motor cruiser arrive and find it impossible to pick up a mooring. In the end a Belgian skipper dinghied over to assist.
Leaking Bolt
10/02/10 23:56
A new water leak. This was a very slow one marked by rusting around a bolt (foremost on the forward starboard exterior handrail.
e
After cleaning up.
Refitting the bolt with lots of sealant solved the problem.
eAfter cleaning up.
Refitting the bolt with lots of sealant solved the problem.
Puerto Sauce
04/02/10 23:36
Puerto Sauce is not a huge place. A very secure harbour offers around 6 visitor buoys and 10 "stern to" serviced berths on the quay (currently being expanded to 140 berths). Our daily cost on a buoy is Urg$69 (about £2). Showers are available at an adjacent yacht club and cost Urg$29.
Serviced berths and adjacent park.
Last night I recorded 1.6m at low water. When I questioned Hidrografia staff this morning they advised that in rare extreme conditions depths can fall as low as 0.4m. There is exposure to winds W through NW.
The harbour also houses a deep water berth for tankers and freighters serving the large Fanapel paper mill next door. There is some noise from machinery and shift hooters but it is not overbearing. In more easterly winds a smell not dissimilar to a wet dog emanates from the mill.
Nancy needed to return to BsAS so we caught the bus into Colonia. A local bus took us to the main Montevideo road Ruta 1.
Local bus.
There we connected with an intercity coach. I was surprised that these intercity coaches are fitted with onboard internet (Movistar). I was able to use my Touch to check mail and read the news at no charge.
Intercity coach.
Serviced berths and adjacent park.
Last night I recorded 1.6m at low water. When I questioned Hidrografia staff this morning they advised that in rare extreme conditions depths can fall as low as 0.4m. There is exposure to winds W through NW.
The harbour also houses a deep water berth for tankers and freighters serving the large Fanapel paper mill next door. There is some noise from machinery and shift hooters but it is not overbearing. In more easterly winds a smell not dissimilar to a wet dog emanates from the mill.
Nancy needed to return to BsAS so we caught the bus into Colonia. A local bus took us to the main Montevideo road Ruta 1.
Local bus.
There we connected with an intercity coach. I was surprised that these intercity coaches are fitted with onboard internet (Movistar). I was able to use my Touch to check mail and read the news at no charge.
Intercity coach.
Pampero
03/02/10 23:35
Up early this morning at just after 07:00. The Uruguayan tanker Ancap Noveno has just berthed on the commercial quay and the yachts are lying to a light NE breeze.
Around 08:50 the barometer had fallen to 995 and we noticed three long tubular clouds approaching from the west. These heralded the imminent arrival of a Pampero.
The yachts are lying to a light NNE breeze.
Cold dry air from the Argentine Pampas approaching from the south west meets warm moist air from the north resulting in these spectacular cloud formations and very strong winds.
As the first cloud approaches the wind begins to increase and back to the west.
This Pampero had three tubular clouds. As the first approached windspeed increased reaching 30kn as the cloud passed overhead. This was not great as Pamperos go. Winds of 50-60kn are not uncommon.
Puerto Sauce is a very secure little port, much better than Colonia, but some of these boats moored stern to the quay, were struggling in strong winds.
The second cloud approaching. The yachts are lying WNW in 25-30 knots of wind.
A sunny gap between the first and second clouds.
The second cloud overhead.
The yachts are now lying SW to a 30 knot wind.
These motor yachts need their engines to stay off the quay.
Once the third cloud passed overhead the air was noticeably colder and the wind had dropped away to below 20 knots.
Around 08:50 the barometer had fallen to 995 and we noticed three long tubular clouds approaching from the west. These heralded the imminent arrival of a Pampero.
The yachts are lying to a light NNE breeze.
Cold dry air from the Argentine Pampas approaching from the south west meets warm moist air from the north resulting in these spectacular cloud formations and very strong winds.
As the first cloud approaches the wind begins to increase and back to the west.
This Pampero had three tubular clouds. As the first approached windspeed increased reaching 30kn as the cloud passed overhead. This was not great as Pamperos go. Winds of 50-60kn are not uncommon.
Puerto Sauce is a very secure little port, much better than Colonia, but some of these boats moored stern to the quay, were struggling in strong winds.
The second cloud approaching. The yachts are lying WNW in 25-30 knots of wind.
A sunny gap between the first and second clouds.
The second cloud overhead.
The yachts are now lying SW to a 30 knot wind.
These motor yachts need their engines to stay off the quay.
Once the third cloud passed overhead the air was noticeably colder and the wind had dropped away to below 20 knots.
Colonia to Puerto Sauce
02/02/10 14:38
Conditions were relatively benign this morning with a forecast of N-NW 4-6 gusting 7 in rain squalls.
By the time we dropped our mooring at 13:30, bound for Puerto Sauce about 20 miles to the east, a force 6 northerly was kicking up a nasty chop in Colonia harbour.
Passing the commercial harbour at around 14:00 it began to rain heavily with N winds gusting to 34 knots. We continued at around 4.5 knots under 1/3 yankee. Visibility deteriorated and the shore was no longer visible.
At this point our Raymarine C70 Display System (installed September 2006) failed. This device displays information from all the navigation aids on board including, position, wind, depth, speed, radar and digital charts. It became unresponsive to all controls and went into an infinite loop whereby it cycled continuously between startup screen and off. Turning the power on and off made no difference. Fortunately our 12 year old Autohelm repeaters continued to display our position, speed, wind and depth. Navigation switched to plotting GPS positions on the chart and visual bearings.
The weather eased as rainstorms passed and the wind settled at around 20-25 knots. We could see the shore again and the rest of the trip was plain sailing under full yankee. It became a bit bumpy as the wind veered to NNE-NE.
We were able to sail right into the harbour at Puerto Sauce only starting the engine a few minutes before picking up a mooring at 18:30.
Later, while having a fiddle with the C70, I triggered a factory reset which wiped out all data. 600 plus waypoints, and all routes and tracks recorded since installation. Fortunately most were backed up. The upside was that the unit now seemed to be functioning normally.
News from Buenos Aires that my new passport is ready. That was quick.
By the time we dropped our mooring at 13:30, bound for Puerto Sauce about 20 miles to the east, a force 6 northerly was kicking up a nasty chop in Colonia harbour.
Passing the commercial harbour at around 14:00 it began to rain heavily with N winds gusting to 34 knots. We continued at around 4.5 knots under 1/3 yankee. Visibility deteriorated and the shore was no longer visible.
At this point our Raymarine C70 Display System (installed September 2006) failed. This device displays information from all the navigation aids on board including, position, wind, depth, speed, radar and digital charts. It became unresponsive to all controls and went into an infinite loop whereby it cycled continuously between startup screen and off. Turning the power on and off made no difference. Fortunately our 12 year old Autohelm repeaters continued to display our position, speed, wind and depth. Navigation switched to plotting GPS positions on the chart and visual bearings.
The weather eased as rainstorms passed and the wind settled at around 20-25 knots. We could see the shore again and the rest of the trip was plain sailing under full yankee. It became a bit bumpy as the wind veered to NNE-NE.
We were able to sail right into the harbour at Puerto Sauce only starting the engine a few minutes before picking up a mooring at 18:30.
Later, while having a fiddle with the C70, I triggered a factory reset which wiped out all data. 600 plus waypoints, and all routes and tracks recorded since installation. Fortunately most were backed up. The upside was that the unit now seemed to be functioning normally.
News from Buenos Aires that my new passport is ready. That was quick.
Colonia
01/02/10 23:36
It was very hot today. We dinghied over to a nearby beach. The shore shelves very gently and it was still possible to stand 50m offshore
A flat calm Rio de la Plata with Colonia yacht harbour in the background.
Nancy under tow.
A flat calm Rio de la Plata with Colonia yacht harbour in the background.
Nancy under tow.
Colonia
30/01/10 22:39
The weather here is certainly changeable. After heavy rain and strong SE winds overnight we had a huge rainbow just after 06:00.
More rain and unsettled weather followed with the wind backing NE. Late afternoon saw very low dark clouds overhead.
More rain and unsettled weather followed with the wind backing NE. Late afternoon saw very low dark clouds overhead.
Tigre - Nueva Palmira - Colonia
29/01/10 23:40
Our lightly loaded ferry left Tigre at 07:30.
This route is certainly the most scenic crossing to Uruguay.
This complex off Rio Lujan offers moorings, apartments and golf courses. Perfect for some.
Aboard the ferry.
We were in Uruguay on time at 10:30/11:30 and after a slowish minibus trip arrived back in Colonia at 13:00 on a very hot day.
This route is certainly the most scenic crossing to Uruguay.
This complex off Rio Lujan offers moorings, apartments and golf courses. Perfect for some.
Aboard the ferry.
We were in Uruguay on time at 10:30/11:30 and after a slowish minibus trip arrived back in Colonia at 13:00 on a very hot day.
Day Trip to Colonia
26/01/10 22:31
When renewing a passport it is necessary to bring the old one. A fact overlooked in my rush to catch the bus yesterday.
The best option was a day return to Colonia on BuqueBus, booked online and costing Arg$133. I left BsAs at 09:30 and returned at 22:30 after spending about 3 hours aboard Kiriwina in Colonia.
Immigration formalities were very slick and fast. Argentine and Uruguayan immigration officers sit together and are able to process large numbers of passengers with virtually no delay. Chilean authorities please note! It can be done.
Eladia Isabel, comfortable tourist lounge with cafeteria. Other options are first class and special class. Tourist class was just fine.
Galleria space featuring live music.
Harbour entrance with Yacht Club Argentino to starboard.
Eladia Isabel was built in 1994 and enlarged in 2005. Service speed is a relaxed 10 knots with a crossing time of 3 hours.
Eladia Isabel in Colonia. Bow section. The car deck is open.
One disembarks via an old unused terminal before entering the brand new ferry terminal at Colonia.
Either there was a budget shortfall or a late supplier. The new departure lounge furnished with very second hand chairs from somewhere and old seating from one of the ferries.
Checkin was very slick. Insert a barcoded booking confirmation an out popped a boarding card.
Sunset en route Colonia Buenos Aires.
The best option was a day return to Colonia on BuqueBus, booked online and costing Arg$133. I left BsAs at 09:30 and returned at 22:30 after spending about 3 hours aboard Kiriwina in Colonia.
Immigration formalities were very slick and fast. Argentine and Uruguayan immigration officers sit together and are able to process large numbers of passengers with virtually no delay. Chilean authorities please note! It can be done.
Eladia Isabel, comfortable tourist lounge with cafeteria. Other options are first class and special class. Tourist class was just fine.
Galleria space featuring live music.
Harbour entrance with Yacht Club Argentino to starboard.
Eladia Isabel was built in 1994 and enlarged in 2005. Service speed is a relaxed 10 knots with a crossing time of 3 hours.
Eladia Isabel in Colonia. Bow section. The car deck is open.
One disembarks via an old unused terminal before entering the brand new ferry terminal at Colonia.
Either there was a budget shortfall or a late supplier. The new departure lounge furnished with very second hand chairs from somewhere and old seating from one of the ferries.
Checkin was very slick. Insert a barcoded booking confirmation an out popped a boarding card.
Sunset en route Colonia Buenos Aires.
Colonia - Nueva Palmira - Tigre
24/01/10 23:00
I need to renew a passport in Buenos Aires. The quickest way back was via BuqueBus from Colonia but they charge like wounded bulls.
An alternative is Lineas Delta Argentino from Nueva Palmira to Tigre. It takes longer but is cheaper (Arg$110) with a more convenient arrival at Tigre.
I nearly didn't make it. After trying to contact the Boteros for 40 minutes I got a lift ashore from a neighbouring boat and caught a taxi to the bus terminal.
A minibus from Colonia delivers passengers to the ferry terminal at Nueva Palmira. Immigration took only a few minutes.
Our traditional Argentine built delta ferry.
It was not large but the interior was comfortable.
Ferry terminal at Nueva Palmira, Uruguay.
Harbour entrance.
Yacht moorings. Anchor astern with bow lines to the shore. Not a place to leave the boat unattended for too long.
Commercial harbour just downstream.
Powering down the Rio Uruguay.
Then we turned into Rio Sauce. Pretty much unpopulated with only the occasional cottage.
At Arroyo Ceibito we turned south towards Rio Parana Guazu.
Arroyo Ceibito is quite narrow. At times we touched the trees.
Our route then took us west along the Rio Parana Guazu to the busy Rio Parana Mini.
Tanker Antonio M Ferro in the Parana Mini. Fully loaded with main deck submerged. This must be Tropical Fresh Water and then some under load line rule though I couldn't see any load line at all.
There are still wrecks, even this far north.
A timber carrier, also with main deck submerged.
It was a lovely trip through the heart of the Delta. From Parana Mini we continued in Canal 4 before entering Canal Gobernador de la Serna until Rio Parana de las Palmas which we crossed into Canal Gobernador Arias. Finally we entered Rio Lujan and continued on to Tigre.
Nordelta complex off Rio Lujan
A busy Estacion Fluvial in Tigre.
An alternative is Lineas Delta Argentino from Nueva Palmira to Tigre. It takes longer but is cheaper (Arg$110) with a more convenient arrival at Tigre.
I nearly didn't make it. After trying to contact the Boteros for 40 minutes I got a lift ashore from a neighbouring boat and caught a taxi to the bus terminal.
A minibus from Colonia delivers passengers to the ferry terminal at Nueva Palmira. Immigration took only a few minutes.
Our traditional Argentine built delta ferry.
It was not large but the interior was comfortable.
Ferry terminal at Nueva Palmira, Uruguay.
Harbour entrance.
Yacht moorings. Anchor astern with bow lines to the shore. Not a place to leave the boat unattended for too long.
Commercial harbour just downstream.
Powering down the Rio Uruguay.
Then we turned into Rio Sauce. Pretty much unpopulated with only the occasional cottage.
At Arroyo Ceibito we turned south towards Rio Parana Guazu.
Arroyo Ceibito is quite narrow. At times we touched the trees.
Our route then took us west along the Rio Parana Guazu to the busy Rio Parana Mini.
Tanker Antonio M Ferro in the Parana Mini. Fully loaded with main deck submerged. This must be Tropical Fresh Water and then some under load line rule though I couldn't see any load line at all.
There are still wrecks, even this far north.
A timber carrier, also with main deck submerged.
It was a lovely trip through the heart of the Delta. From Parana Mini we continued in Canal 4 before entering Canal Gobernador de la Serna until Rio Parana de las Palmas which we crossed into Canal Gobernador Arias. Finally we entered Rio Lujan and continued on to Tigre.
Nordelta complex off Rio Lujan
A busy Estacion Fluvial in Tigre.
Conchilas
21/01/10 23:14
A fine, hot and windless day. I decided to have a look at the port of Conchilas sited about 40 km upriver from Colonia.
Scooter hire companies now advise customers not to venture beyond the limits of Colonia. This makes hiring one pretty pointless. I said I wanted to go to Conchilas and after first saying I couldn't the proprietor relented on the condition that I was on my own outside Colonia.
For US$20 I rented a tired 50cc scooter and set off. By road Conchilas is about 55km.
After about an hour and a half I arrived at the village of Conchilas. Recognised for it's architectural heritage.
Most buildings are long and low with galvanised tin rooves.
Some are stone. Others plaster over brick/stone.
There is a small park in the centre. Quiet would be an understatement.
The bank was a little different.
Most houses appeared to be part of long terraces.
Puerto Conchilas lay about 20 minutes down a very worn out asphalt road.
Apart from a few anglers Puerto Conchilas appeared deserted.
The layout is not dissimilar to Colonia with the quay/breakwater facing more to the west. Channel marking buoys in the Rio Uruguay were clearly visible but apart from a light on the quay there appeared to be no navigational aids for Puerto Conchilas.
Prefectura office and beach viewed from the quay.
Rio Uruguay side of the quay with abandoned chain and machinery. A strong ebb was flowing round the quay.
Inshore working face of the quay with fendering. No sign of any recent activity. A number of mooring blocks were stacked awaiting deployment.
Another view of the inshore quay from a small sandy beach nearby. A wreck in the approaches is also visible. This inshore bay would be totally exposed to winds from NE through to W.
A fading cafe/residence near the quay.
Another wreck further into the bay.
Prefectura Office with exposed rocks and Rio Uruguay beyond.
Quite what the purpose this port serves was unclear. At some point there must have been sufficient trade to justify the substantial quay/breakwater. Perhaps it will have a future as a leisure port if the moorings are deployed.
On the outskirts of Puerto Conchilas one is directed to a nearby yacht club.
Situated on the south bank of Arroyo San Francisco.
It boasts a substantial clubhouse,
Riverside moorings, parking and parrillas.
A shower block is close by.
The ubiquitous french boat moored bow to bank with anchor aft. The bank is quite low and floods at high river levels.
I did not see the entrance to Arroyo San Francisco. A chap in the club mentioned a minimum depth of 2m and two ocean going yachts were moored along with a couple of small argentine yachts. It appeared well sheltered.
Cost per night is Urg$100 (about £3) per night including electricity and I suspect lots of mosquitos. There did not appear to be any shops but it is a quiet spot with a couple of nice little beaches near The cost is not far south of charges at Colonia or Nueva Palmira.
On the way back to Conchilas I stopped by the English Cemetery.
In fact there are numerous English and German graves...
... sited alongside a much greater number of Spanish style graves.
Back on Route 21 and 45km from Colonia. At this point my scooter was displaying a high temperature warning light.
En route a sign to this battlefield. A battle of which I have never heard.
Safely back in Colonia without incident there was a mirror calm,
and quarter moon.
Scooter hire companies now advise customers not to venture beyond the limits of Colonia. This makes hiring one pretty pointless. I said I wanted to go to Conchilas and after first saying I couldn't the proprietor relented on the condition that I was on my own outside Colonia.
For US$20 I rented a tired 50cc scooter and set off. By road Conchilas is about 55km.
After about an hour and a half I arrived at the village of Conchilas. Recognised for it's architectural heritage.
Most buildings are long and low with galvanised tin rooves.
Some are stone. Others plaster over brick/stone.
There is a small park in the centre. Quiet would be an understatement.
The bank was a little different.
Most houses appeared to be part of long terraces.
Puerto Conchilas lay about 20 minutes down a very worn out asphalt road.
Apart from a few anglers Puerto Conchilas appeared deserted.
The layout is not dissimilar to Colonia with the quay/breakwater facing more to the west. Channel marking buoys in the Rio Uruguay were clearly visible but apart from a light on the quay there appeared to be no navigational aids for Puerto Conchilas.
Prefectura office and beach viewed from the quay.
Rio Uruguay side of the quay with abandoned chain and machinery. A strong ebb was flowing round the quay.
Inshore working face of the quay with fendering. No sign of any recent activity. A number of mooring blocks were stacked awaiting deployment.
Another view of the inshore quay from a small sandy beach nearby. A wreck in the approaches is also visible. This inshore bay would be totally exposed to winds from NE through to W.
A fading cafe/residence near the quay.
Another wreck further into the bay.
Prefectura Office with exposed rocks and Rio Uruguay beyond.
Quite what the purpose this port serves was unclear. At some point there must have been sufficient trade to justify the substantial quay/breakwater. Perhaps it will have a future as a leisure port if the moorings are deployed.
On the outskirts of Puerto Conchilas one is directed to a nearby yacht club.
Situated on the south bank of Arroyo San Francisco.
It boasts a substantial clubhouse,
Riverside moorings, parking and parrillas.
A shower block is close by.
The ubiquitous french boat moored bow to bank with anchor aft. The bank is quite low and floods at high river levels.
I did not see the entrance to Arroyo San Francisco. A chap in the club mentioned a minimum depth of 2m and two ocean going yachts were moored along with a couple of small argentine yachts. It appeared well sheltered.
Cost per night is Urg$100 (about £3) per night including electricity and I suspect lots of mosquitos. There did not appear to be any shops but it is a quiet spot with a couple of nice little beaches near The cost is not far south of charges at Colonia or Nueva Palmira.
On the way back to Conchilas I stopped by the English Cemetery.
In fact there are numerous English and German graves...
... sited alongside a much greater number of Spanish style graves.
Back on Route 21 and 45km from Colonia. At this point my scooter was displaying a high temperature warning light.
En route a sign to this battlefield. A battle of which I have never heard.
Safely back in Colonia without incident there was a mirror calm,
and quarter moon.
Colonia
20/01/10 23:00
It was windy and raining yesterday but today was fine and sunny.
Wandered about a bit amongst the side streets and residential areas to the west of central Colonia.
Yard statue complete with mate.
A fine day in the harbour.
Wandered about a bit amongst the side streets and residential areas to the west of central Colonia.
Yard statue complete with mate.
A fine day in the harbour.
Colonia
19/01/10 22:10
A horrible day today. Winds from the SE 24-30 knots with heavy rain most of the time. Towards evening it started to clear.
Riachuelo to Colonia
18/01/10 23:58
A very quiet night. One certainly wouldn't know there were more than one hundred boats moored in this river.
In the morning we dinghied down to the beach. It shelves very gently and 50 metres from shore the water is still only waist deep.
We had a swim and a walk along the surprisingly clean beach. There was an old wreck in the shallows and two stranded navigation buoys further round the bay.
Back on board we prepared to sail. This involved using the dinghy to let go shore lines getting back on board and weighing anchor. In calm conditions it was pretty straightforward.
Moorings
Foliage extends right to the water on both banks.
Boats moored downstream of us.
Floating plants.
There was a little wind outside the river but it died away and we continued under engine to Colonia. No sign of the grounded yacht we saw yesterday so they must have got her off.
Back in Colonia at 18:10 we picked up another buoy further inshore and much more sheltered.
After dinner ashore nancy got the 23:30 fast Buquebus ferry back to Buenos Aires. Cost Urg$1010 (£32).
In the morning we dinghied down to the beach. It shelves very gently and 50 metres from shore the water is still only waist deep.
We had a swim and a walk along the surprisingly clean beach. There was an old wreck in the shallows and two stranded navigation buoys further round the bay.
Back on board we prepared to sail. This involved using the dinghy to let go shore lines getting back on board and weighing anchor. In calm conditions it was pretty straightforward.
Moorings
Foliage extends right to the water on both banks.
Boats moored downstream of us.
Floating plants.
There was a little wind outside the river but it died away and we continued under engine to Colonia. No sign of the grounded yacht we saw yesterday so they must have got her off.
Back in Colonia at 18:10 we picked up another buoy further inshore and much more sheltered.
After dinner ashore nancy got the 23:30 fast Buquebus ferry back to Buenos Aires. Cost Urg$1010 (£32).
Colonia to Riachuelo
17/01/10 23:57
This morning we topped up on stores and paid the Hidrografica fee of around £5.00 per day.
We set off from Colonia with a brisk WNW wind and had a lovely sail round to Riachuello 8.8 miles away.
The jetty we visited yesterday. The long beach was practically empty.
A yacht aground inshore near Pinta Negro. We heard later that they had grounded while trying to recover dinghy.
Outer buoy, Riachuello approaches.
The approach to Riachuello was pretty straightforward. We were set a bit to the east and the water shoaled rapidly. It's best to maintain a straight line from the fairway buoy into the river proper.
Riachuello entrance.
Looking astern to seaward.
I had expected a few boats but this is a popular spot. There were boats everywhere. Moored bow into the trees, parallel to the shore on two anchors and various other permutations.
We moored just upstream from an aggregates plant. Initially I deployed our small Bruce. It now rests in 4 metres of muddy water. It being the first time the anchor has been deployed I failed to check that it was connected to the chain. It wasn't.
The CQR was then deployed astern and we got moorings ashore. However,the CQR did not set properly and dragged every time the wind gusted. After three failed resets I bought the Rocna down from the bow. At the second attempt it dug in well and we were secure.
Time to go over the side for a swim.
We set off from Colonia with a brisk WNW wind and had a lovely sail round to Riachuello 8.8 miles away.
The jetty we visited yesterday. The long beach was practically empty.
A yacht aground inshore near Pinta Negro. We heard later that they had grounded while trying to recover dinghy.
Outer buoy, Riachuello approaches.
The approach to Riachuello was pretty straightforward. We were set a bit to the east and the water shoaled rapidly. It's best to maintain a straight line from the fairway buoy into the river proper.
Riachuello entrance.
Looking astern to seaward.
I had expected a few boats but this is a popular spot. There were boats everywhere. Moored bow into the trees, parallel to the shore on two anchors and various other permutations.
We moored just upstream from an aggregates plant. Initially I deployed our small Bruce. It now rests in 4 metres of muddy water. It being the first time the anchor has been deployed I failed to check that it was connected to the chain. It wasn't.
The CQR was then deployed astern and we got moorings ashore. However,the CQR did not set properly and dragged every time the wind gusted. After three failed resets I bought the Rocna down from the bow. At the second attempt it dug in well and we were secure.
Time to go over the side for a swim.
Colonia
15/01/10 23:54
We rented a 50cc scooter at US$7 per hour, ignored the instruction to remain within Colonia city limits, and set off to wander eastwards along the coast.
Five to six miles east of Colonia this large pier extended several hundred metres into the river plate. Now derelict it had previously been used for the export of aggregates to Argentina.
Palm lined highway on the outskirts of Colonia.
Tree lined street to the east of Colonia.
Bridge on the now derelict Montevideo/Colonia railway.
Park Forrestal Ferrando. 54 hectares on the eastern side of Colonia
Colonia terminus, Colonia Montevideo railway.
Colonia lighthouse.
Old city walls and moat, Colonia.
Five to six miles east of Colonia this large pier extended several hundred metres into the river plate. Now derelict it had previously been used for the export of aggregates to Argentina.
Palm lined highway on the outskirts of Colonia.
Tree lined street to the east of Colonia.
Bridge on the now derelict Montevideo/Colonia railway.
Park Forrestal Ferrando. 54 hectares on the eastern side of Colonia
Colonia terminus, Colonia Montevideo railway.
Colonia lighthouse.
Old city walls and moat, Colonia.
Colonia
14/01/10 23:53
I think I now have the correct checkin procedures. First, report to the Hidrografica office and register vessel details. Second, present a crew list and vessel details to the Prefectura. For Mercosur nationals that is it. Crew changes are merely noted on the crew list.
Third, non Mercosur nationals need to report to immigration at 428, 18 de Julio for an entry stamp.
Erica caught a bus to La Paloma and we had a relaxing afternoon on board. I rigged the main sun cover. There was sufficient wind for the wind generator to keep up with consumption.
In the evening we ate at the restaurant overlooking the harbour we had visited in August. (Urg$520)
Seen on the dock and supplied by Ninos Bikes.
Third, non Mercosur nationals need to report to immigration at 428, 18 de Julio for an entry stamp.
Erica caught a bus to La Paloma and we had a relaxing afternoon on board. I rigged the main sun cover. There was sufficient wind for the wind generator to keep up with consumption.
In the evening we ate at the restaurant overlooking the harbour we had visited in August. (Urg$520)
Seen on the dock and supplied by Ninos Bikes.
Puerto Madero to Colonia
13/01/10 23:53
Today's forecast was for NE winds 17-21 knots backing W and then SW. I had cleared customs yesterday so we set off for immigration and the prefectura. All straight forward and we were back on board ready to go by 14:10 which meant we had to wait until the bridge opened again at 15:00.
Approaching the exit to Puerto Madero with the bridge just starting to open.
It closed as soon as we were through.
ARA Libertad in Puerto Madero.
Yacht Club Argentino.
It was a fast sail across will with 22-32 knots of wind on the port quarter (NW). More short steep seas and we only used between 2/3 and full yankee.
However, as the crew discovered, progress was not uncomfortable.
We covered 30 miles in just over 5 hours, a very fast passage for Kiriwina. At Colonia there were only 2 vacant buoys and with NW7 over a long fetch in fading light it was a job to pick up a buoy. At the third attempt we made it.
The combination of wind over tide made for a very uncomfortable motion on board. We went ashore for dinner after which Nancy and Erica opted to sleep in a hostel.
Approaching the exit to Puerto Madero with the bridge just starting to open.
It closed as soon as we were through.
ARA Libertad in Puerto Madero.
Yacht Club Argentino.
It was a fast sail across will with 22-32 knots of wind on the port quarter (NW). More short steep seas and we only used between 2/3 and full yankee.
However, as the crew discovered, progress was not uncomfortable.
We covered 30 miles in just over 5 hours, a very fast passage for Kiriwina. At Colonia there were only 2 vacant buoys and with NW7 over a long fetch in fading light it was a job to pick up a buoy. At the third attempt we made it.
The combination of wind over tide made for a very uncomfortable motion on board. We went ashore for dinner after which Nancy and Erica opted to sleep in a hostel.