Overland to Buenos aires
17/12/10 22:02
Our TTL coach for Montevideo was due to depart at 23:30 but we didn't board until 00:15.
Brazil and Uruguay have a very considerate approach to overnight travellers. One's passport is held by the coach conductor who takes care of all formalities. A declaration is completed at checkin so at borders crossings sleeping passengers are not disturbed.
TTL are not as luxurious as the premium Argentine coach services but their coach was comfortable and the staff very helpful and considerate.
It was an uneventful overnight trip. We passed smoothly through Brazilian and Uruguayan border posts either side of Chuy, stopped at Punta del Este and arrived in Montevideo (Tres Cruces) more or less on time .
I took a Collectivo down to Montevideo Harbour. It was very hot and Buquebus was a bit chaotic. The self serve checkins did not work and they were having repeated computer malfunctions at the checking desks.
Upstairs prior to boarding it was all a bit of a zoo. Eventually boarding started but large areas of the ferry were cordoned off with the result that there were not quite enough seats made available for all on board.
Uruguayan navy base in Montevideo.
Departure was around 13:00 and three hours later we arrived in a very hot Buenos Aires.
Brazil and Uruguay have a very considerate approach to overnight travellers. One's passport is held by the coach conductor who takes care of all formalities. A declaration is completed at checkin so at borders crossings sleeping passengers are not disturbed.
TTL are not as luxurious as the premium Argentine coach services but their coach was comfortable and the staff very helpful and considerate.
It was an uneventful overnight trip. We passed smoothly through Brazilian and Uruguayan border posts either side of Chuy, stopped at Punta del Este and arrived in Montevideo (Tres Cruces) more or less on time .
I took a Collectivo down to Montevideo Harbour. It was very hot and Buquebus was a bit chaotic. The self serve checkins did not work and they were having repeated computer malfunctions at the checking desks.
Upstairs prior to boarding it was all a bit of a zoo. Eventually boarding started but large areas of the ferry were cordoned off with the result that there were not quite enough seats made available for all on board.
Uruguayan navy base in Montevideo.
Departure was around 13:00 and three hours later we arrived in a very hot Buenos Aires.
Buenos Aires to Montevideo
17/11/10 22:03
I took the excellent Sturla river launch from Tigre to Puerto Madero arriving at just after 09:00.
With my customs clearance completed yesterday it only remained to check out with Immigration and Prefectura. Unusually immigration took almost an hour with queueing and problems with a new computer system.
At the Prefectura a new formality had been introduced. Under decree 256/2010 the master of any vessel leaving an Argentine port is required to sign an affadavit to the effect that the vessel will not call at a number of British south atlantic territories without first obtaining permission from the Argentine authorities.
I'm not sure how well this plays under international law but presumably if one does not sign it one will not be granted clearance.
In any case I was cleared out but not in time to catch the 12:00 bridge opening. At 14:00 we left Puerto Madero and cleared the harbour at 14:30
The wind was all over the place. Initially it was good sailing but later the wind veered to the east and around 19:00 we began a series of long tacks.
A RoRo bound for Puerto Sauce passed to the north.
Later a nice red sunset gave way to a full moon.
Ships passing in the night. One day I will learn how to take night photos on a boat at sea.
In these conditions sailng in the River Plate is a relaxed affair. One is well clear of shipping channels and there is very little recreational traffic. We made slow progress through the night with SE winds F3-4.
With my customs clearance completed yesterday it only remained to check out with Immigration and Prefectura. Unusually immigration took almost an hour with queueing and problems with a new computer system.
At the Prefectura a new formality had been introduced. Under decree 256/2010 the master of any vessel leaving an Argentine port is required to sign an affadavit to the effect that the vessel will not call at a number of British south atlantic territories without first obtaining permission from the Argentine authorities.
I'm not sure how well this plays under international law but presumably if one does not sign it one will not be granted clearance.
In any case I was cleared out but not in time to catch the 12:00 bridge opening. At 14:00 we left Puerto Madero and cleared the harbour at 14:30
The wind was all over the place. Initially it was good sailing but later the wind veered to the east and around 19:00 we began a series of long tacks.
A RoRo bound for Puerto Sauce passed to the north.
Later a nice red sunset gave way to a full moon.
Ships passing in the night. One day I will learn how to take night photos on a boat at sea.
In these conditions sailng in the River Plate is a relaxed affair. One is well clear of shipping channels and there is very little recreational traffic. We made slow progress through the night with SE winds F3-4.
Colonia to Buenos Aires
14/10/10 21:25
First job this morning was to obtain an exit stamp from Immigration. After a shower I paid the Hidrografia for one night on a buoy. This time it cost Urg$190, a 19% increase from Urg$160 in January. Last year the amenities block was refurbished. Less than a year later some areas were looking distinctly second hand with render peeling away from the ceiling and woodwork deteriorating.
Lastly I cleared out with the Prefectura and 12:00 we were ready to go.
There was virtually no wind as the buoy was dropped and we cleared Colonia harbour.
As this fast Buquebus ferry passed about a mile outside the harbour a light southerly breeze appeared and we motor sailed with full main and yankee.
An isolated danger buoy at the western approaches to Colonia.
There followed an uneventful sail/motor sail across to Buenos Aires. The wind, mostly from the south, veered a tad to the west but it was possible to sail most of the way.
Approaching Buenos Aires.
The inner basin of Darsena Norte and Yacht Club Argentino.
Access to Puerto Madero used to be via an opening bridge. The old british swing bridge had been demolished and there was now only a pedestrian footbtidge. Arriving at 17:40 we had to wait for the 18:00 opening. Meantime a slow BuqueBus ferry came in to berth.
As usual, a rib from Yacht Club Puerto Madero came out to escort us in and by 19:15 Kiriwina was all fast on her berth.
Lastly I cleared out with the Prefectura and 12:00 we were ready to go.
There was virtually no wind as the buoy was dropped and we cleared Colonia harbour.
As this fast Buquebus ferry passed about a mile outside the harbour a light southerly breeze appeared and we motor sailed with full main and yankee.
An isolated danger buoy at the western approaches to Colonia.
There followed an uneventful sail/motor sail across to Buenos Aires. The wind, mostly from the south, veered a tad to the west but it was possible to sail most of the way.
Approaching Buenos Aires.
The inner basin of Darsena Norte and Yacht Club Argentino.
Access to Puerto Madero used to be via an opening bridge. The old british swing bridge had been demolished and there was now only a pedestrian footbtidge. Arriving at 17:40 we had to wait for the 18:00 opening. Meantime a slow BuqueBus ferry came in to berth.
As usual, a rib from Yacht Club Puerto Madero came out to escort us in and by 19:15 Kiriwina was all fast on her berth.
An Incident
10/08/10 22:23
Slightly damp this morning. On the way up to catch a train I stepped up to the station forecourt.
The grass here was slightly wet.
I slipped and fall face down onto the concrete.
A bit of an ouch and I ended up looking like this.
The grass here was slightly wet.
I slipped and fall face down onto the concrete.
A bit of an ouch and I ended up looking like this.
Mercedes to Tigre
19/04/10 12:05
Up at a reasonable hour to catch a 10:30 coach to Nueva Palmira.
A virtualy empty marina at Nueva Palmira. Only a few local boats and no visiting boats at all.
Much lower water levels today and lots of ocean bulkers at anchor waiting to load grain.
The bridge on our Delta Argentino launch, Don Humberto.
Autumn in the Tigre delta.
Back at Tigre on time at 18:00.
A virtualy empty marina at Nueva Palmira. Only a few local boats and no visiting boats at all.
Much lower water levels today and lots of ocean bulkers at anchor waiting to load grain.
The bridge on our Delta Argentino launch, Don Humberto.
Autumn in the Tigre delta.
Back at Tigre on time at 18:00.
Menkar - Launch
06/03/10 22:11
After an 8 month refit it was time for Gilles to launch Menkar.
Menkar awaiting launch at CN Albatross near Buenos Aires.
All went well and her new Yanmar ran like a sewing machine. After a short sea trial and some electrical work we left CN Albatros and move to a berth at Parque Nautico, San Fernando.
After mooring I left Gilles to attend to a variety of small jobs and prepare Menkar for sea.
Menkar awaiting launch at CN Albatross near Buenos Aires.
All went well and her new Yanmar ran like a sewing machine. After a short sea trial and some electrical work we left CN Albatros and move to a berth at Parque Nautico, San Fernando.
After mooring I left Gilles to attend to a variety of small jobs and prepare Menkar for sea.
Velas Sudamérica 2010
05/03/10 22:12
The navies of Chile and Argentina jointly organised Velas Sudamérica 2010 and this week the tall ships are in Darsena Norte, Buenos Aires.
All the ships are open to the public free of charge.
Aboard Simon Bolivar from Venezuela.
My favourite, the Chilean Esmeralda, viewed from the deck of Simon Bolivar.
A forest of spars and rigging. The Argentine Libertad with the Brazilian Cisne Branco astern.
Libertad.
As the sun set all the ships, apart from Cisne Branco and Sagres who left their ensigns flying, began ensign lowering ceremonies.
The Mexican Cuahtémoc.
Argentine navy band about to play their ensign down.
The Spanish Juan Sebastian Elcano, a four masted barquentine and older sister ship to Esmeralda.
Esmeralda with Juan Sebastian Elcano astern. Esmeralda was originally intended to replace Juan Sebastian Elcano but due to financial problems in Spain she was sold to Chile part way through construction. Juan Sebastian Elcano was later restored. They are both magnificent ships.
Esmeralda from another angle.
Creative flaking of mooring lines aboard Esmeralda.
Sagres and Cuahtémoc.
Strip lighting in the rigging aboard Esmeralda.
Subtle up-lighting on Juan Sebastian Elcano. Esmeralda is ahead of her. Sagres and Cuahtémoc in the distance with strung bulb lighting.
Simon Bolivar.
Cisne Branco.
Libertad.
Juan Sebastian Elcano.
Esmeralda.
Sagres.
Cuahtémoc.
All the ships are open to the public free of charge.
Aboard Simon Bolivar from Venezuela.
My favourite, the Chilean Esmeralda, viewed from the deck of Simon Bolivar.
A forest of spars and rigging. The Argentine Libertad with the Brazilian Cisne Branco astern.
Libertad.
As the sun set all the ships, apart from Cisne Branco and Sagres who left their ensigns flying, began ensign lowering ceremonies.
The Mexican Cuahtémoc.
Argentine navy band about to play their ensign down.
The Spanish Juan Sebastian Elcano, a four masted barquentine and older sister ship to Esmeralda.
Esmeralda with Juan Sebastian Elcano astern. Esmeralda was originally intended to replace Juan Sebastian Elcano but due to financial problems in Spain she was sold to Chile part way through construction. Juan Sebastian Elcano was later restored. They are both magnificent ships.
Esmeralda from another angle.
Creative flaking of mooring lines aboard Esmeralda.
Sagres and Cuahtémoc.
Strip lighting in the rigging aboard Esmeralda.
Subtle up-lighting on Juan Sebastian Elcano. Esmeralda is ahead of her. Sagres and Cuahtémoc in the distance with strung bulb lighting.
Simon Bolivar.
Cisne Branco.
Libertad.
Juan Sebastian Elcano.
Esmeralda.
Sagres.
Cuahtémoc.
Tigre - Nueva Palmira - Colonia
29/01/10 23:40
Our lightly loaded ferry left Tigre at 07:30.
This route is certainly the most scenic crossing to Uruguay.
This complex off Rio Lujan offers moorings, apartments and golf courses. Perfect for some.
Aboard the ferry.
We were in Uruguay on time at 10:30/11:30 and after a slowish minibus trip arrived back in Colonia at 13:00 on a very hot day.
This route is certainly the most scenic crossing to Uruguay.
This complex off Rio Lujan offers moorings, apartments and golf courses. Perfect for some.
Aboard the ferry.
We were in Uruguay on time at 10:30/11:30 and after a slowish minibus trip arrived back in Colonia at 13:00 on a very hot day.
Passport
27/01/10 23:39
Now in possession of an about to expire passport I visted the Australian embassy in the suburb of Belgrano.
It is a lovely building but sadly the security is pretty overbearing. Mobile phones, but not ipods or cameras, have to be left in a locker at the gate. At least there is somewhere to leave them. Visitors do not find themselves with the problem described here.
One is required to talk to the receptionist through a thick glass screen and it looked as though she got to breathe different air than us humble visitors. Given heavy security on the gate I wondered why it was necessary for such drastic separation from those the staff were there to serve.
That said, the process was very quick and efficient. I was sent away to get money (cash only) and some more photographs. They didn't like the ones I had.
An hour later everything was submitted. I have to return in 10 days to collect a new passport.
It has been difficult getting Uruguayan coastal charts. I had been told about El Pulpo Negro in Beccar. An excellent shop with a large selection of charts and books in stock. They had everything I needed.
It is a lovely building but sadly the security is pretty overbearing. Mobile phones, but not ipods or cameras, have to be left in a locker at the gate. At least there is somewhere to leave them. Visitors do not find themselves with the problem described here.
One is required to talk to the receptionist through a thick glass screen and it looked as though she got to breathe different air than us humble visitors. Given heavy security on the gate I wondered why it was necessary for such drastic separation from those the staff were there to serve.
That said, the process was very quick and efficient. I was sent away to get money (cash only) and some more photographs. They didn't like the ones I had.
An hour later everything was submitted. I have to return in 10 days to collect a new passport.
It has been difficult getting Uruguayan coastal charts. I had been told about El Pulpo Negro in Beccar. An excellent shop with a large selection of charts and books in stock. They had everything I needed.
Colonia - Nueva Palmira - Tigre
24/01/10 23:00
I need to renew a passport in Buenos Aires. The quickest way back was via BuqueBus from Colonia but they charge like wounded bulls.
An alternative is Lineas Delta Argentino from Nueva Palmira to Tigre. It takes longer but is cheaper (Arg$110) with a more convenient arrival at Tigre.
I nearly didn't make it. After trying to contact the Boteros for 40 minutes I got a lift ashore from a neighbouring boat and caught a taxi to the bus terminal.
A minibus from Colonia delivers passengers to the ferry terminal at Nueva Palmira. Immigration took only a few minutes.
Our traditional Argentine built delta ferry.
It was not large but the interior was comfortable.
Ferry terminal at Nueva Palmira, Uruguay.
Harbour entrance.
Yacht moorings. Anchor astern with bow lines to the shore. Not a place to leave the boat unattended for too long.
Commercial harbour just downstream.
Powering down the Rio Uruguay.
Then we turned into Rio Sauce. Pretty much unpopulated with only the occasional cottage.
At Arroyo Ceibito we turned south towards Rio Parana Guazu.
Arroyo Ceibito is quite narrow. At times we touched the trees.
Our route then took us west along the Rio Parana Guazu to the busy Rio Parana Mini.
Tanker Antonio M Ferro in the Parana Mini. Fully loaded with main deck submerged. This must be Tropical Fresh Water and then some under load line rule though I couldn't see any load line at all.
There are still wrecks, even this far north.
A timber carrier, also with main deck submerged.
It was a lovely trip through the heart of the Delta. From Parana Mini we continued in Canal 4 before entering Canal Gobernador de la Serna until Rio Parana de las Palmas which we crossed into Canal Gobernador Arias. Finally we entered Rio Lujan and continued on to Tigre.
Nordelta complex off Rio Lujan
A busy Estacion Fluvial in Tigre.
An alternative is Lineas Delta Argentino from Nueva Palmira to Tigre. It takes longer but is cheaper (Arg$110) with a more convenient arrival at Tigre.
I nearly didn't make it. After trying to contact the Boteros for 40 minutes I got a lift ashore from a neighbouring boat and caught a taxi to the bus terminal.
A minibus from Colonia delivers passengers to the ferry terminal at Nueva Palmira. Immigration took only a few minutes.
Our traditional Argentine built delta ferry.
It was not large but the interior was comfortable.
Ferry terminal at Nueva Palmira, Uruguay.
Harbour entrance.
Yacht moorings. Anchor astern with bow lines to the shore. Not a place to leave the boat unattended for too long.
Commercial harbour just downstream.
Powering down the Rio Uruguay.
Then we turned into Rio Sauce. Pretty much unpopulated with only the occasional cottage.
At Arroyo Ceibito we turned south towards Rio Parana Guazu.
Arroyo Ceibito is quite narrow. At times we touched the trees.
Our route then took us west along the Rio Parana Guazu to the busy Rio Parana Mini.
Tanker Antonio M Ferro in the Parana Mini. Fully loaded with main deck submerged. This must be Tropical Fresh Water and then some under load line rule though I couldn't see any load line at all.
There are still wrecks, even this far north.
A timber carrier, also with main deck submerged.
It was a lovely trip through the heart of the Delta. From Parana Mini we continued in Canal 4 before entering Canal Gobernador de la Serna until Rio Parana de las Palmas which we crossed into Canal Gobernador Arias. Finally we entered Rio Lujan and continued on to Tigre.
Nordelta complex off Rio Lujan
A busy Estacion Fluvial in Tigre.
Puerto Madero to Colonia
13/01/10 23:53
Today's forecast was for NE winds 17-21 knots backing W and then SW. I had cleared customs yesterday so we set off for immigration and the prefectura. All straight forward and we were back on board ready to go by 14:10 which meant we had to wait until the bridge opened again at 15:00.
Approaching the exit to Puerto Madero with the bridge just starting to open.
It closed as soon as we were through.
ARA Libertad in Puerto Madero.
Yacht Club Argentino.
It was a fast sail across will with 22-32 knots of wind on the port quarter (NW). More short steep seas and we only used between 2/3 and full yankee.
However, as the crew discovered, progress was not uncomfortable.
We covered 30 miles in just over 5 hours, a very fast passage for Kiriwina. At Colonia there were only 2 vacant buoys and with NW7 over a long fetch in fading light it was a job to pick up a buoy. At the third attempt we made it.
The combination of wind over tide made for a very uncomfortable motion on board. We went ashore for dinner after which Nancy and Erica opted to sleep in a hostel.
Approaching the exit to Puerto Madero with the bridge just starting to open.
It closed as soon as we were through.
ARA Libertad in Puerto Madero.
Yacht Club Argentino.
It was a fast sail across will with 22-32 knots of wind on the port quarter (NW). More short steep seas and we only used between 2/3 and full yankee.
However, as the crew discovered, progress was not uncomfortable.
We covered 30 miles in just over 5 hours, a very fast passage for Kiriwina. At Colonia there were only 2 vacant buoys and with NW7 over a long fetch in fading light it was a job to pick up a buoy. At the third attempt we made it.
The combination of wind over tide made for a very uncomfortable motion on board. We went ashore for dinner after which Nancy and Erica opted to sleep in a hostel.
Deckhead Holes
10/01/10 22:22
I discovered signs of dampness in the upper port saloon locker. It is lined with carpet which had to be removed.
The culprits were the usual suspects. Holes drilled through the deck. Most likely in the course of installing the teak deck.
I plugged the holes with a mixture of cotton wool and epoxy filler. After hosing the deck for half an hour no water came through and the carpet was glued back in place.
The culprits were the usual suspects. Holes drilled through the deck. Most likely in the course of installing the teak deck.
I plugged the holes with a mixture of cotton wool and epoxy filler. After hosing the deck for half an hour no water came through and the carpet was glued back in place.
Response
08/01/10 22:21
Waiting for a bus in Recoleta this morning when 6 police cars arrived nearby. Officers left their cars, put on bullet proof jackets, drew their side arms and entered a building.
By the time the bus arrived it was looking like a false alarm. They were leaving without anybody in custody.
By the time the bus arrived it was looking like a false alarm. They were leaving without anybody in custody.
